Edge Coloring

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by JRSeese, Apr 4, 2004.

  1. JRSeese

    JRSeese Member

    Feb 8, 2004
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    There is an excellent article in the KB about edge coloring, if you take a look you will agree. I can't imagine a better photo to illustrate the concept.


    I hereby pose a couple additional questions.

    A lot of models I have obtained have a black outline around each part. Sometimes it's rather thick; other times it is not. I imagine some kits leave the black outline out altogether, which is probably for the best. When there is a black line, should I be cutting on the inside of the line and then matching the edge color? I don't want to cut on the insides of the lines only to find my pieces don't fit.... :?

    Second - When scoring (edit) mountain folds, I usually cut through the top layer of the paper to get a nice crisp fold. However, this also leads to revealing white of the paper. Do the same techniques apply? You almost have to fold the paper completely in half to get a suitable surface to color...

    Lastly, just to throw out this subtopic, what about coloring tabs? They are often left as white and I have found that they sometimes show through just a bit when joining pieces.

    Your thoughts?

  2. Ron

    Ron Member

    Jan 12, 2004
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    Hi Josh

    Glad you liked the article :) It would be better if I ever got around to finishing it! About the lines... I'm by no means an expert but experience has led me to cut down the centre of lines if at all possible. If they're 'really' thick, I'd go with the outside of the line. My theory is 'you're better lookin' at it than for it' If it's a tad too big you can always trim it down before doing the glue.

    I score things a little differently than some of the FAQ's mention. If its a small or large part, I score after I've roughly released the part from the sheet. If possible, use a straight edge along the fold line and pierce the 'flashing' just outside the part on both sides. Flip the piece over and line up your ruler again to the puncture marks and gently run the backside
    (non cutting edge) of your blade along the ruler gently scoring the part.
    Bend the part over the edge of your ruler to get a nice perfect fold. The same goes for valley folds. My other rule is to never cut the printed side of a piece unles it's to be an actual cut. This way you never have to worry about coloring a folded edge. The other thing is when you're folding a part, only fold it a slight bit more than you need. The piece will keep it's shape that way and the printed surface will not break.

    Hope this helps