I know there are makers of custom decals out there, but does anyone know of anyone making custom dry transfers? Or a way to do them yourself using a computer and printer?
Dry Transfers
- Thread starter billk
- Start date
Not myself. But I did post your question to the Y! group "rr-decal"; if anyone has the answer, somebody there should.
Thanx, Mike - keep me posted. BTW, what's the URL of that place (or do you have to join to access it?)
Bill
Bill
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rr-decal/
It says public archives, so you should be able to look at all the messages without joining.
It says public archives, so you should be able to look at all the messages without joining.
decal printing
Billk,
The main problem with "print it yourself" decals/transfers is having the ability to print white on the clear decal/transfer paper. This really makes it cost prohibitive to do at home on your home pooter. Dry tansfers may be a little easier (if you gat get the appropriate paper), with your home printer, but you won't be able to have any "white" on them. (Wet decals would need special "non soluble" inks).
Billk,
The main problem with "print it yourself" decals/transfers is having the ability to print white on the clear decal/transfer paper. This really makes it cost prohibitive to do at home on your home pooter. Dry tansfers may be a little easier (if you gat get the appropriate paper), with your home printer, but you won't be able to have any "white" on them. (Wet decals would need special "non soluble" inks).
Water slide decals don't need special ink if your printer is a laser and not an inkjet. I print my own decals all the time.
We have a laserjet and an inkjet at home, and I've used both with some very pleasing results. Just ordered some more decal paper yesterday, as a matter of fact.
As for the problem with white, well, I just don't use white in any color schemes of homemade railroads. Problem solved.
As for the problem with white, well, I just don't use white in any color schemes of homemade railroads. Problem solved.
I started this thread asking questions about dry transfers, not decals! Is it possible to make your own dry transfers, or does anyone know where custom ones can be made?
Dry transfer vs decals
As to the white ink for decals, the Alps printer does that. I also noticed that they are no longer for sale "new". I have seen some on eBay, the MD-1000 is going around $300 to 350.
As to dry transfers, aren't these silk screened? I use to use them all the time, Formatt brand. The paper would have to be something akin to wax paper so it would release the ink. Maybe someone out there has an Alps and would give it a try. Unlike decals which you print positive, dry transfers would have to be printed in mirror image. ....Walt
As to the white ink for decals, the Alps printer does that. I also noticed that they are no longer for sale "new". I have seen some on eBay, the MD-1000 is going around $300 to 350.
As to dry transfers, aren't these silk screened? I use to use them all the time, Formatt brand. The paper would have to be something akin to wax paper so it would release the ink. Maybe someone out there has an Alps and would give it a try. Unlike decals which you print positive, dry transfers would have to be printed in mirror image.
....WaltWhen I bought this desk top, I also got the ALPS MD1300, specificly because it can print white (and silver and gold). I usually set up everything on the laptop and print black, to proof the sheet, then scan to the Alps. I keep a "black" label on the white ribbon so I don't have to mess around with settings. So far, the decal have been really good. I don't know about dry transfers
though. The print has to be mirror image, it has to release from the backing, and there has to be an adhesive to hold the letters on the model surface. I would imagine that mirror image can be done with a photo or drawing program, and the backing might not be too hard to find, but the application of adhesive could be tricky enough to rule out home use.
My two lincolns, for whatever it's worth,
Pete
though. The print has to be mirror image, it has to release from the backing, and there has to be an adhesive to hold the letters on the model surface. I would imagine that mirror image can be done with a photo or drawing program, and the backing might not be too hard to find, but the application of adhesive could be tricky enough to rule out home use.
My two lincolns, for whatever it's worth,
Pete
I seem to recall that there was a company call C.D.S. that made custom dry transfers but I can't find anything on them.
Dry transfers are screen printed. Check your yellow pages under screen printing. Try to find one who does "flat work" and if you can supply the artwork the price might not be too bad...Vic
Dry transfers are screen printed. Check your yellow pages under screen printing. Try to find one who does "flat work" and if you can supply the artwork the price might not be too bad...Vic
Bill,
I just finished surfing
http://www.letraset.com
They make custom dry transfer lettering / logos et al.
The site contains info on what they need as artwork etc.
It may prove to be cost prohibitive to get a minimum order fulfilled but at least you now know of a source.
They already produce "N" and "HO" dry lettering for several railroad names. Perhaps you might find what you want already available in their website catalogue.
Good hunting
Errol
I just finished surfing
http://www.letraset.com
They make custom dry transfer lettering / logos et al.
The site contains info on what they need as artwork etc.
It may prove to be cost prohibitive to get a minimum order fulfilled but at least you now know of a source.
They already produce "N" and "HO" dry lettering for several railroad names. Perhaps you might find what you want already available in their website catalogue.
Good hunting
Errol
I don't believe that dry transfer lettering uses any kind of adhesive except the tackyness of the ink of the lettering itself. I've worked with it a lot in the past and if you do not burnish it down it will flake off. I think the burnishing set up a little heat and that causes the ink to become tacky. After awhile the lettering will tend to flake off if you don't put on an over-spray. I would be willing to believe that some of the materials available on the Alps printers, such as metalics, white ink, etc. might work the same way if they were printed on a wax type paper so when they were burnished the would release and stick. If some one has an Alps out there maybe they would try it....Walt