Sent away for the Oregon today and I was wondering if any one out there has built the kit and there any problem or trouble spots to look out for. Hopefully after going through everything I'll be starting a construction thread. If I can figure out the picture posting business. :?
DNs USS Oregon?
- Thread starter Sticky Fingers
- Start date
Hi Mark,
I have it, finished the hull and have started on dressing out the deck. Some of the parts (I will try to remember which ones) are mis-numbered on the deck structures that I have finished. I still haven't figured out which are the small gun barrels for the small 6? pounders. Let me know when you start construction and we could to a tandem build or something. I would enjoy the company to finish the build and compare notes.
Glen
I have it, finished the hull and have started on dressing out the deck. Some of the parts (I will try to remember which ones) are mis-numbered on the deck structures that I have finished. I still haven't figured out which are the small gun barrels for the small 6? pounders. Let me know when you start construction and we could to a tandem build or something. I would enjoy the company to finish the build and compare notes.
Glen
I have the ship too, guys. The white/buff paper edition. It's going to be some time before I ever build it though. I look forward to seeing the construction thread.
Sticky Fingers, the photo thing is pretty easy. Just browse your folders for the picture file in the Filename section where it says "Add an Attachment".
Cardfan, I'll check the plans about those 6 pounder gun barrels. It may be that you're supposed to build your own.
Sticky Fingers, the photo thing is pretty easy. Just browse your folders for the picture file in the Filename section where it says "Add an Attachment".
Cardfan, I'll check the plans about those 6 pounder gun barrels. It may be that you're supposed to build your own.
After further review, that would be the 4 six inch guns under the shelter deck. All of the illustrations in the instructions show the guns incomplete throughout construction, but don't really mention them. Or perhaps I haven't had enough coffee or it has worn off by the time I get that far each time I start building again. I won't admit defeat though.
Glen
Glen
You guys should really write Roman a letter. When I was building his Folgore, he sent me a slew of pictures that he specifically took to help me out. Maybe we can get him on here......anyone want to invite him?
He was the greatest when it came to helping out
Ron
He was the greatest when it came to helping out
Ron
cardfan said:
No, no, you're right, Glen. I just reviewed the plans and I see exactly what you mean. Ron's advice is good, you should e-mail Roman about it. I used toothpicks for the same sort of battery on the Wien, but you at least need to know the dimensions of those 6" guns.
I had thought about emailing or snail mailing Roman for any advice if needd, But I really need to loof through the instructions first and do some test builds of monocromatic parts first to work out the bugs if possible. Plus do a practice build of the Admirable Class and the Ambrose. Nothing display quality just to get a feel of the build process. Besides I've got a couple of ideas I want to try out for the substructure and some other things. Topsecret for now 
You can send Roman a private email under DN p13 members list.
Just got the details of Takao's deck rails from him.
barry
Just got the details of Takao's deck rails from him.
barry
Ok, I just printed out a new set of pages and sealed them with matte finish, let's see if that will keep me from having to do some touch up work this time. I want to try to have the hull formers cut out by this evening and maybe start skinning the hull itself. I plan to take notes with this build...
Glen
Glen
Glen
Nice hull, eyelets look good how about putting the pics on the forum so we can see them more easily than in the gallery.
barry
Nice hull, eyelets look good how about putting the pics on the forum so we can see them more easily than in the gallery.
barry
I haven't been able to follow this for the last couple days as I am having internet problems and the local cable company won't be able to come out till friday and check the lines for signal strength. In doing some research on the Oregon on the net I did find the ship was transfered back to the Navy in late 41 or early 42 by the City of Portland as a patriotic gesture and also probably to get rid of a funding black hole for return to duty. As the ship was built in the 1890s and was coal fired the amount of work it would of taken to modernize the vessel was most likely excessive ( I'm guessing here but it does appear likely). The ship was consequently stripped of its suprstructrue, armament and possibly the power plant and converted to an ammunition storage barge. Pictures are available on the internet. In this condition it was moored at Guam in late 45 when it broke free from its morings during a typhoon and was later found approxiamately 550 miles away in good condition. The hulk was eventually sold for scrap and broken up in Japan in the mid 50s. The reason I bring this up is I was thinking of doing a test build of the hulll as used for this purpose
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/03.htm
The last 2 pictures show her at Guam in 1945 and being towed into Kawasaki, Japan to be broken up
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/03.htm
The last 2 pictures show her at Guam in 1945 and being towed into Kawasaki, Japan to be broken up
Nicely done, Glen! The hull looks great! 
When weighing the advantages and disadvantages of a full hull version versus a waterline version, I was wondering about the necessity of building some sort of stand/cradle for the hull at this stage. Do you think a stand is necessary to keep the hull stable when fitting the superstructure and to prevent wearing on the hull from being moved about your work area?
A.J.
When weighing the advantages and disadvantages of a full hull version versus a waterline version, I was wondering about the necessity of building some sort of stand/cradle for the hull at this stage. Do you think a stand is necessary to keep the hull stable when fitting the superstructure and to prevent wearing on the hull from being moved about your work area?A.J.
Thanks A.J. I do plan on making the cradle as soon as I can figure it out. That may sound silly, but I haven't quite wrapped my head around that one. The hull on this model is relatively flat on the bottom and sits very well, but I do worry about the constant scuffing from the cutting mat surface.
In an attempt to prevent damage I have sprayed the sheets with matte finish and also given the finished hull a second coat to deal with any little mishaps. There are water stains on the first hull I built that just seem to come from nowhere.ops:
More photos soon.
Glen
I do plan on making the cradle as soon as I can figure it out. That may sound silly, but I haven't quite wrapped my head around that one. The hull on this model is relatively flat on the bottom and sits very well, but I do worry about the constant scuffing from the cutting mat surface. In an attempt to prevent damage I have sprayed the sheets with matte finish and also given the finished hull a second coat to deal with any little mishaps. There are water stains on the first hull I built that just seem to come from nowhere.
ops: More photos soon.
Glen
cardfan said:There are water stains on the first hull I built that just seem to come from nowhere.
I know what you mean.
I just adopted the technique of applying glue with a paintbrush that I was keeping clean in a cup of water... and learned the lesson that one should not keep the cup on the other side of the model so that you have to reach across it. ops:A.J.
She's looking good so far, Glen. What's that you're using for the portholes ? Looks like some sort of brass eyelets. What did you use to drill out the portholes ?
What's that you're using for the portholes ? Looks like some sort of brass eyelets. What did you use to drill out the portholes ?Thanks Barry and Steve,
I am using 1/16 inch brass eyelets for the portholes, from the local scrapbooking store. I have a 1/16 inch paper punch that I make the inital hole with and then a tool to finish the eyelets. I really like the way they look but only come in sets of 175 in 6 different colors. Now I just need a project to use the rest on.
Glen
I am using 1/16 inch brass eyelets for the portholes, from the local scrapbooking store. I have a 1/16 inch paper punch that I make the inital hole with and then a tool to finish the eyelets. I really like the way they look but only come in sets of 175 in 6 different colors. Now I just need a project to use the rest on.
Glen