Digital Navy's BB-3 Oregon, 1:250

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Barry, thank you very much.

The trick is (but works only with this few parts built) to only make pictures of the "good" side.

Whatever I attach - if the parts are the same on port and starboard, I alway attach the port part first, then I know how to do it better on starboard.

With that scheme, chances are better to have at least one good looking side :)

regards,
Michael
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Hello friends,

I want to show you how I build the deck houses. In the image you can see various houses in different stages of completion.

I try to avoid folds wherever possible. For me, it is easier to achieve sharp edges by cutting apart the part and then glue it together with the use of small stripes of cardboard.

Also, I use cardboard stripes to stiffen the walls and aid as glueing tabs.

For now, I have started all houses that will hold the fly bridge. They all need to be of exact the same height to allow a level and straight fly bridge. This is easier to achieve if you match the parts before folding them.

More later,
Michael
 

cmdrted

Active Member
Jul 8, 2004
334
0
36
68
Avondale,Pa. USA
Michael, excellant tip on the various houses, mine always look like parts of the edges were fractured, and required twice as much touch-up, many thanks, this is looking good :!:
 

bfam4t6

Member
Jun 28, 2004
35
0
16
Olathe, Kansas
You've done an amazing job so far Micheal. The hull looks remarkable. Although I have yet to build a ship, I may give your method of building sharp edges a try when I get the chance.
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Hello friends,

thanks for your kind words about my technique - I have to pass that on to a polish modeler who is known as "Sherman 2" on kartonbau.de - I learned that technique from him.

Here is what was achieved today... A lot of work for a few cubes. None of them are glued to the deck yet. I'll do that when I have them all done...

Note the cylinder on the right - that is part 38. There are three other marks with "38" on the deck, but those are for skylights with part numbers 43 and 45....

best regards,
Michael
 

Gil

Active Member
Jan 25, 2004
275
0
36
Northern Bear Flag Republic
Ok Michael,

How many times must you do a part of the model before you show it to us? It's too perfect to have accomplished the first time around...,

Humor aside your work is simply "as designed". Must make Roman just a little nervous.

Best Regards & Thanks, Gil
 

Renaud

Member
Feb 12, 2004
68
0
16
62
Lille, northern France
Scale up

Next time you build a ship, enlarge first the parts by two or three and the model would result twice or three times bigger, nobody guess it, and this trick makes Scorpio or Murban no match. Don't forget to hide or adjust the background, and prevent you cat from being on the poster too, whatever he is a fan or not.
In the same way, the oversized dreadnoughts made obsolete ships built prior to them. Vae victis!
And be sure your cat will not give the game away.
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
@Gil: Well, I admit I had to do one or two parts twice... but that's mainly because I know it is a print-it-yourself model, so I can try something and print a new part if it doesn't work out.

@Renaud: ha ha, nice trick. Have to enlarge my appartement first though...

Here is a comparison shot of the hull before and after I sprayed it with dull UV-protection. I think you can see the dulling effect. The color difference is due to photography, it is not there in reality.
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
And here is my work of today. Spent some hours on it, but it still looks like yesterday :(

All parts are glued to the deck now and the first "new style" 6 inch gun is fitted. I painted the barrel black because all other barrels are black as well...

Note to Roman: There are three rectangular and one round marks with no. 38 on the shelter deck. The round mark is correct, the two smaller marks with no. 38 are for parts 45, the larger one is for part 43.
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Lastly, here is a little trick that I often use:

If a kit has white marks for parts like this one, then I like to paint a colored frame so that if something doesn't fit perfectly, you won't see white spots, but something in a less apparent color. (There's a hint for designers here: extend the surrounding color a little inside the glue mark, that way there will never be a problem).

That's all for today folks,
thanks for stopping by
Michael
 

Jim Krauzlis

Active Member
Sep 26, 2005
1,490
0
36
68
Copiague, Long Island, New York
A treat to behold, Michael! :D

Great tips too, for which I thank you very much!

I am thoroughly enjoying your build of this beautiful ship, and truly appreciate the fine photography as well as the descriptions of how you do what you do so very, very well.

Looking forward to your next update!

Cheers!

Jim
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Hello friends,

here is a detail on how the vents are made.

1) The parts that build a vent.
2) Parts prepared
3) I make the rounded tops by sticking the paper tube on a rounded styrene rod, applying white glue to the "flaps" and forming them around the rod.
4) vent assembled
5) these short pieces of styrene rod will go into the bottom of the vent for added stability and better glueing surface.
 

murban

Member
Apr 23, 2004
118
0
16
Scheessel, Germany
www.cardinspace.com
Vents, the last fiddly bits on the shelter deck attached and the fly bridge built. Not sure if it was a wise idea to attach the fly bridge at this point in time.

We will see ;)

Note to Roman:

* Sheet 10b, one part 55a is white instead of buff
* Sheet 11b, one part 51d has a coloring problem
* Sheet 13b, one part 51a has a coloring problem

So far for today,
Michael