Kevin, even without coloring the edges, it came out pretty good. When you tackle the larger model, just remember it builds one part at a time, and it has no subassembly any more difficult to construct that what you've already done (in other words, eat the elephant one bite at a time, and just remember it doesn't have to be consumed in a single sitting). A couple scraps of advice from my own experience. When working with the "big boys" (cruisers and up), approach the superstructures like a layer cake, and complete the first layer (add all the fiddley little details to it, including railings, even if the parts numbers might not be in sequence) before going on to the next layer. Take it from one who learned the hard way, it is a lot easier doing it that way rather than trying to fit a fiddly little part over a railing and way back under a deck overhang, while trying to thread it around and through a couple of guy wires at the same time. Similarly, add all the pipes and ladders to the funnels before you glue the funnel in place. Color all the backs of parts which will be exposed to view (like "canvas-covered" and solid railings) before you cut them from the parts pages. If at all possible, scan the parts pages before you start cutting...having a digital kit is invaluable when parts get torn, lost, spindled, mutilated, and/or turned into a pasteball. When you have open railings to contend with (or latticework girders like crane booms, aircraft catapults, etc.), consider printing them onto inkjet transparency film. If you can't do that (and the backs of the parts will be visible), print a set of mirror-image (flipped vertically or horizontally) parts on thin paper, and glue those to the back of the original part so there aren't large, blank expanses visible to the viewer/critic. Dryfit all parts before applying glue, and measure thrice and cut once. And, above all else, KEEP ON BUILDING. Hope this helps.
