Coupling

shaygetz

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May 2, 2003
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No problem doing it here as the cheaper N scale cars track much better then their HO counterparts, most likely because the difference in mass isn't as noticable in N.
 

dr.5euss

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Sep 5, 2005
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Oh right thankssign1

I'm just thinking, my model shop has 30/40 wagons, all with the Rapido coupling. If I'm going to buy all of them (in due course:D), then maybe I should stick with them?

How easy is it to change from Rapido to MicroTrains etc - does the whole truck need doing or just the coupler?

Thanks,
 

60103

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Mar 25, 2002
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George: there are actually 3 ways to do it.
1) replace the whole truck or bogie.
2) replace the coupling in the truck with a MT.
3) chop off the coupling and mount and screw a MT to the floor.
#2 is probably the hardest and the hardest to get the bits for. (I think they make a drop in replacement, but they may not be available).
#3 may cause the car to require a larger turning radius.
I found (25 years ago when I did N) that the pinsprovided had different sizes and there was a bit of slop for the MT trucks on original pins.
My own preference is #3, but I found that some cars didn't have floors in the right place.
 

Bill Pontin

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Oct 14, 2001
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George I found the cheapest way out, if you decide to go with the Micro Train couplers, is David's suggestion #3. I use Micro Train #1015s (short shank) and screw them onto the floor of the car. The short shank gives a more prototypical look. You do need a height gage to ensure the heights are correct, most of my replacements required no shiming. If you anticipate a layout with tight radii you might have to go to the longer shank version of the MT couplers. Try a couple to check and test it out. I replaced all my Santa Fe passenger fleet (18 cars) over a period of time by using a transition car, that is one with a micro train coupler on one end and leaving a rapido coupler at the other end.