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Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by CardStalker, Dec 31, 2006.
Thanks Tim, I'll have to try that out sometime. My Best to you.
Please anyone that has any other idea's or sugustions please input your thoughts. please. Thank you.
Well, I always varnish all my paper models with a water soluble parquet varnish, which is meant for wooden parquet floors. It is available in high gloss and satin and manufactured (in Holland) as "Rambo Pantser Lak".
It is milky white when applied, but dries in 30 minutes up to an REALLY colorless gloss finish, not as most varnishes which always have a faint yellowish haze. Afterwards, you can clean and dust the model with kitchen towel and glass cleaner.
Just my pennies worth.
Scon10, thank you for the input. Sounds like something to check out. Anyone know of something close to this in America?
hi all, does anybody know if you can get this or something similar in the uk,even if it web based???? was just thinking about this topic just last night when i was making one of yamaha's model bikes.
Thanks Carl. I to have used their Matte spray on a couple of models. I have to very much agree about it making edge coloring easyer. If you wonder off a little bit with shaky hands, lol, you have a few seconds to wipe it off before the color dries on the surface.
I used the Krylon Triple Thick on a model I'm working on now, and I like the results, but the experience wasn't completely painless. A couple of tips:
1) Don't do this outside. No matter how "fresh" the air is, EVERYTHING will stick to the glaze as it is drying. I figured this out after the first coat and left for less than 30 seconds to get a box to work in to keep it from happening. When I came back, there were 2 giant leaves stuck to my model sheets. Where did those come from? Anyway, do this in a garage or basement if you can. I can't - I don't have a garage and the air intake for the heater is in the basement, so you can smell paint down there throughout the house. I had better results when I glazed inside a cardboard box, then closed it up to dry. This also keeps sheets from blowing away. It all seems like common sense now, but I had to figure it out.
2) Cardstalker in the OP says he uses 4 light coats to get a gloss finish. Either we have different ideas about what a gloss coat is, or our materials are very different. 4 light coats for me had little effect at all - they just made the paper sticky. The bottle says to apply FULL WET COATS (their caps) - once I did that, the results were a lot better.
3) This stuff goes fast. I used a whole can on 12 sheets of paper. Glad I got an extra can. If you buy some, get a few cans.
richarnd, thanks so much for the input. I too took a few tries to work up a system for clear coating. first off i have a basement that i can work in, big enough the ventalation is not a big deal. for me, i start off the paper and start a spray and with pratice determined a good speed to travel at. i make the first past at a speed that puts a layer on that looks glossy for a few seconds. the card stock sucks it in pretty quick. i then let it dry for about 15/20 min's before i put another coat on. it's important to let the first layer dry so the paper becomes sealed, but it can take 2/3 coats to get it there. again letting it dry between coats. i didn't follow the directions on the can, in fact i didn't even read them, lol. again thank you for your take on this, and please anyone else that wants to add please do. thank you all.
Hey Cardstalker...from my thread to yours now, and I have a question. You were talking about the part edges taking the coloring much better...do you cut the parts first? That seems almost impossible...does it soak into the paper enough that it helps with the bleeding once you do cut them?
Thanks...wonder why searching did not reveal this thread before??
For a flat spray, I recommend a "matte fixative", such as the one made by Krylon. It is made for protecting artwork and I've never known it to cause any bleeding or discoloring. I use it as a "seal coat" under gloss Krylon, as well as for a flat finish.
I like the triple thick Krylon, but it's easy to over do and get globs and runs. Be careful with it. (And the fumes are toxic! That goes for all lacquer and oil-based sprays)
If you don't want to stink up the house, get a large cardboard box. Place it so the open side is to the front and use it for a spray booth. Close it while the spray gloss dries. (Also works well with an airbrush.)
Bob thanks for the great input. Tazman3, first off, the search function is a bit tricky and I too have problems with it. As to edge prepping, the clear coat does soak into the paper, the first couple of coats get sucked in and it is best if you spray the parts before cutting. Cutting after coating takes a little more effort, but I have found that if you attack the cut area first without getting into the paper you can make any adjustments to any area that you got off line on the next pass. Also it acts kind of like a guide as you finish cutting through. After the part is cut, when you edge prep the part it does not bleed in as much as with plain paper. If you look at this thread that I did on my Little Joe build: http://forum.zealot.com/t147138/, I show that I clear coated all the parts before cutting and edge prepping. Also I show how to remove the clear coat after the part is cut from any tabs that got coated to allow for gluing. Also if you check out my current build: http://forum.zealot.com/t157164/, and go to where I do the mirror, I show a technique on how to make the clear coat smoother.
I'm new to this papercraft hobby. I'm trying to build a car papercraft and there's one thing nice about a car is the glossy surface of its body works. I can see the effect of Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze giving a glossy finish to the paper. But i noticed that the glossy part is quite uneven. Is this caused by the paper and can I sand it using Tamiya's ultra fine sand paper?
Hello oraclehara, welcome aboard. The wavy surface is from ther clear coat. If you apply it lightly many times it will not be as wavy. Yes you can sand it, but let it dry for at least a day. You will have to reapply the clear coat, but it will be smoother.
Thank you so much for clearing that out. I'm very new at this paper craft hobby. I'll post photos of my work when it's done.
I have been clearcoating for years now. If you are loking for smooooooooth then print it on photo paper first. The shiny surface does not require a sealer coat and you will get a very nice finish. Just don't put it on too heavy. I use "Rustoleum Painter's Touch" with UV. It will give you a vinyl like texture and is flexible.
I went to the art shop yesterday to get the Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze and Matte Finish. But they ran out of stocks with the Matte Finish and so i got the Low Odor Clear Coatings (Matte) instead. I just found out that this Low Odor Clear Coatings is of latex enamel. Can i use this for my paper craft?
I would think that it should be ok, but you might try it on some plane paper first, and then on something printed. Latex might be a bit more flexable. Let us know how you make out.
I was thinking if the latex enamel can't be used, i'll just go exchange for another type. Anybody have experience in this?
I would try it first. latex is water based as is your printer ink. Let your test paper dry well as the ink might bleed during the drying process.