Clear Coating Tips

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by CardStalker, Dec 31, 2006.

  1. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Hi to all. Just want to share somethings I have found by playing around. First off the best Clear Coat that I have found so far is Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze #0500. It takes fewer coats to get it glossy and it is very flexable so it won't crack when you roll it. I have also found out the its best to coat your parts before cutting them out. If you do get some currle when you coat then you can lay something flat and heavy on it to flatten it out. It takes a little more to cut out the parts but it makes it easyer to scribe the form through the clear coat first. I also found that when you edge color the sides or score lines the coloring does not blead and if your using Highliters or paper mate pens and you get it on the surface it can be wiped off before it dries. Going to try and show some pics of how it works for me as I have time. Best to all.

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  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    this will make a great tutorial for the reserves :) thanks a bunch! Does this stuff make it water resistant at all?
    Thanks!
    Chris
  3. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    yes it should make it water resistant, but I have not dunked one in water to find out yet, lol. I'll do some testing to see. Prob would work but any area's ie: edges not coated, would prob soak up the water. Also, I forgot a couple of things, this coating makes the parts stiffer too, so thin support structures turn out stronger. and when you roll, bend, or twist them they don't kink as easy.
  4. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Also, make sure you shake the can well before each coat. You need to put a light coat each time, cause it will soak in and if you try and over do it, it will run and make an uneven surface. It takes 3 or 4 light coats to start to lay clear and shiny.
  5. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Ok, here is a before and after shot. The one on the top is the as printed and the one on the bottom is Clear Coated. It took 4 light coats to get it to shine. You can't quite tell from the pic, but adding clear gloss makes the colors darker. Sorry for the glare but I wanted you to see the clear coat better.

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  6. hpept

    hpept Member

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    is the irregular surface on the "after" picture due to the paper you're using or it's the clear coat itself that adds a "orange skin" effect?
  7. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    its from the clear coat. but you don't see it as much under normal conditions. I'm in close with the flash so there is a lot of reflection coming off. also the more you put on the wavyer it gets, thats why I said light coats. I prob should have not put the last coat on, but I'm trying to show the difference between before and after.
  8. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Ok, here are the parts after cutout. The clear coat parts take a little more effert to cut out but you can do a score line in the clear coat and if you wonder off abit you get the chance to compensate. Next will be edge coloring.

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  9. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Here are the edge coloring steps. First I use a orange highliter. Highliters are nice cause the first past is a light color and you can ajust the darkness by making more passes. The more passes the darker it gets, to a point. The second one is with a metallic silver Sharpie. These are great for edging gray to silver parts, and they come in gold too. The last is the parts edge colored and the clear coated is on the left. Next, time to put them together.

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  10. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Here is another little tip, if you don't have a cutting mat, (I don't) you can use a foam mouse pad to roll cones and cyclinders. Don't get the ones with a smooth surface, just the foam ones, you can get them for just a couple of bucks, or free from some places that what to advertize.

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  11. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    I use that same method for rolling my wheels, and i use a paper lollipop stick, i bought at the local craft store, i was gonna use those sticks for a roll cage.

    use the stick as a dough pin roller, and press the part you want round into the mousepad

    Rick
  12. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Rick, thanks so much for the input, nice to hear from you and thanks for this great site. Here is a shot of what i have been using, crud but what works for me. For rolling, on the left Exacto nife, srew driver, finishing nail, small screw driver. The next item is my glue aplicator. it is a cut off plastic stick from a q-tip like next to it, and last on the right is a PCI computer cover that I use for a straight edge. Like to use steel items as they don't flex as much.

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  13. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    CS, you are welcome.

    The pleasure of the site is all mine

    I see that you are in PA, where in the Keystone State are you?

    Rick
  14. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Brockway, PA, 15824 just off of 80, jc of 28 and 219.
  15. Gartholameau

    Gartholameau New Member

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    When to Clear Coat?

    Hi All,
    I've just joined this forum and I'm impressed with the great info. Thanks for the spray tip Cardstocker. Is it better to spray before building a model or after it is built? I sometimes use poster paints to touch up areas and I imagine it wouldn't take well on a glossed surface.

    Gartholameau
  16. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Gartholameau, I've done both, but doing it after, gives a differnt look. Cause all the glued area's show up lighter. thats why I coat then edge color before putting them together.
  17. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    K, almost new years, thanks to all and have a good one. This is the final assembly. Can't always get a good pic but here it is. The one on the left is the clear coated one. Thats all for this post unless someone has a question. Going to turn this over to a build post next, but prob start tomorrow. thanks all.

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  18. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

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    Thanks for the advice, Cardstalker!

    I was wondering, how does cardstock with three to five coats of spray-on finish compare with glossy photo paper? Any idea which one is easier to work with?
  19. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

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    Hi ArtDecko, It comes close to photo paper. I have tryed to work with photo paper but it is really hard to work with. The ink smears reel easy, ti cracks when you fold or roll to a small diameter and it is very hard to glue. With the clear coat I don't have these problems.
  20. I clear coat all my models. I have use a number of different products. I used the cheaper version of the Krylon which odes not have UV protection. My models faded badly. I swithched to the UV which is more expensive and no more fading problems yet. To save money, I use the cheap stuff until the last coat and then spray with UV. there are several brands of clear coat but the Krylon has the least effect on the ink and doesn't bleed thru the paper if you don't put it on too thick. Also HP inks fade the worst. I have switched to Cannon for that reason. cheaper too andyou get more ink per cartridge.