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Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by Tirta, Jan 12, 2007.
Thank you Maurice? It's really help..
This is a very delayed reply but I ran into this problem recently - this is my solution. I don't claim it's the best solution but it seems to work.
1. For a track side leave the printed track in the sheet and then cut across the track at the hinge lines. Don't cut too far outside the track. Repeat for the matching track side.
2. If you are still sane after (1) then glue (I used diluted PVA glue) a strip of baking paper or rice paper onto the non-printed side of the track. Don't use copy paper or similar for this you need a thin, tough paper.
3. When the glue is dry cut out the track sides - glue together - getting the alignment right takes a bit of effort. Remember to overlap the track elements so there's an unmatched link at each end so you can join the track easily.
4. Detail the track to whatever level you require. If you want to detail only one side do so before gluing the track side together.
The baking paper acts as a hinge and there's enough flexibility to permit the track elements to pull apart slightly when the track is bent so the card doesn't delaminate. It also looks quite realistic since it bends without flopping around.
I've attached one of my test pieces - it's intended to be a track for a T-70.
It will get a set of guide plates and a paint job (which might hide some of the cutting out mistakes).
Wow! It looks amazing, but I bet it was a lot of hours.
Not as much as you might imagine - the outer holes were done with a punch. The slow part is cutting across the hinge lines accurately. I guess that length took me about 3 hours.
These are good looking tracks. In what scale are they?
I should have said - 1/24 - the T-70 was a WW2 light Russian tank. If I remember what Kampfleiger said they were often referred to as "brother grave for two".
You are well on the way to fully working tracks. You will need to stay at the larger scales to include the sort of detail you enjoy.
Copy paper is thin enough and tough enough. Try a 1.5 mm strip and see how much end-on force is needed to snap it. If you only put glue on the track plate pieces the bit of strip between can remain flexible.
This Cromwell is 1/72 scale with 1/4" wide 1/8" pitch tracks (both measurements slightly over scale) and wheels 7/16" diam from an Exacto hole punch. (More realistic looking wheels came a couple of years later.)
40+ years on they still operate well. Only snag is that the tracks simply aren't heavy enough to sag realistically.
PS Incidentally I designed it using paper and pencil. At the time I had yet to put the necessary effort into learning CAD. :grin:
triple post - found how to remove oversize pic - ta.
Edit the post and just delete the pic
Tried copy paper - didn't work. In the method there are two layers of paper between the card track sides. Aside from being a bit too thick the copy paper had a tendency to shear when the track was wrapped around a sprocket (or whatever) - when I switched to baking paper this problem went away.
That model must have been stored well - I can't imagine a model lasting that long in Qld - the bugs would eat it even if it didn't fall to pieces with the humidity changes.
At 1/72 there was no attempt to have teeth on the drive sprocket and larger scale probably would need something more than copy paper.
Do you have a brand name for your baking paper ?
It was made from plain paper painted first with very dilute hot fuel proofer (or banana oil, not sure which on this particular one) followed by spirit based Humbrol enamel, except for the tracks which just got dilute enamel so as not to stiffen the paper strips.
That and careful storage, and in any case I keep my termites in a tree in the yard.
I don't think it's a brand name paper just a generic - found a roll of it in the pantry a while ago and thought it might come in useful. Baking paper also makes good hinges.
I wonder if the rise of digital images will mean that modellers won't take care to treat their models so they'll last but instead just rely on images to document builds. You obviously built the Cromwell with the longevity in mind.
I'm working on another set of tracks using a modification of the method reported
earlier. The objective is to build model tracks which in some ways are better than individual links without enduring that sort of pain.
Reply if anyone's interested in documentation of the build procedure. (There are
so few armour builders around it's hard to tell if there is interest).
I'm definitely interested, Charlie!
I would love to see a report on your methods and I know you will get plenty of other responses for it as well.
Count me in!
Bend my ear man.
Please, enlighten me. Anything would be better than my current method (PTA style).
I am definitely very very interested,
please let us know
Charlie, count me in as well. I'd be very interested to see your technique.