Catenary Clinic

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by hudsonelectric, Apr 30, 2005.

  1. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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  2. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    easy to make then, just two poles basically!!!
  3. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    Hi Chris, I only have about 4' on the front track, less than 3 on the rear track. I will have a stationary train posed but won't be able to have it actually run. I cobbled up a pair of bridge girders (?) from styrene strip. Just to see how the idea of a bridge there would look. I'm inclined to pursue it a bit further. When I checked I found Central Valley only makes this bridge single track. I will scatchbuild two double track ones, if that's the way I decide to go. The photo shows how skewed the bridge ends will be due to the angle over the Tracks below. The styrene strip sitting upright against the future brick wall shows where the rearmost bridge member will be. If I go this route I'll only be able to use one of the Model Memory bridges, and I need to figure out the mechanics of running the catenary thru the bridges, I can't make it out in the photo Chris provided, tho it looks like there is a double track wide catenary bridge immediately in front of the truss bridge.
    Even without the vertical columns installed in the bridge I can see it will be fairly effective at solving my meeting the backdrop problem. Like so many others tho I have a hard time with change, and I kinda miss the look I was going for in that CNJ photo. So I'm torn but proceeding to see how it grows on me.

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  4. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    http://2guyzandsumtrains.com/Content/pa=showpage/pid=29.html

    Ross above you will find my pole making how to posted at 2guyz.
    It has all the info, if you want to build your own and have any problems email me and i`ll do a step by step on the gauge.
  5. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Gary I think it`s going to look great my friend I am sure green-elite-cab chris NJ, will agree


    Take your time keep looking at it and you will see the big picture.
    an asset to any model railway matey :thumb:
  6. jetrock

    jetrock Member

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    Catenary is interesting but seems like a load of work--the old Kalmbach "Traction Handbook" had a bit on hanging catenary. It is also seen on modern "light rail" systems--there is some just a few blocks from my house, where the light rail hits high speeds, but then changes to simple trolley overhead for in-street operation.

    I'm pretty sure that the Sacramento Northern used catenary overhead on the triple truss bridge over the American River just north of Sacramento--it may have been simple trolley overhead but I think catenary style was used in the yard just south of it, and north of that point was high-speed mainline until the change to 3rd rail a bit north of the river.
  7. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    yes, i agree, that will look awesome!

    i suppose since you already built 2 of the Model Memories bridges, that you could just have the too of them a little close than normal, but it will look just as good, and your hard work will be put to use.

    i also think i know where i can get info on the catenary in bridges. i know a guy on another forum ( Railfan.net) who might know.
  8. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    Actually, I bought the premade ones, and one kit, as yet unbuilt. I've done a bit more with the bridge and done some measuring, I would love it if you are able to get me some info on catenary on bridges. Failing that, I found that I have 19" from where I will install the four track Model Memories catenary bridge and the front edge of the truss bridge. A few measurements so you all can get a better feel than the photo supplies, the bridge is 17" long, but skewed 10", so total length is 27". That's a heck of a skew! Anyway, I think I can install a double track catenary bridge with its front pole just in front of the bridge, and with its rear pole within the bridge. That's just my latest thought, anyone who knows better please advise! The 19' spacing is perfect for the Model Memories catenary wire.

    I'd like to thank everybody for their input so far, I really appreciate it!

    Gary
  9. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    ok here is what i found out. catenary in truss bridges are simple. on each beam that goes the width of the bridge on top has a little insulator hanging down, which holds the catenary wire.
  10. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Thanks for searching this Chris.

    I thought it would be a simple thing to make .
  11. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    can anyone give me good dimensions for the PRR type Catenary? more specificaly the kind on the North jersey coast line?
  12. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    Thanks for the info on the catenary on bridges Chris. I've purchased Central Valley's bridge girder set and am starting construction.

    Regarding you question i don't know about the coast line but if you need dimensions for the NE corridor I can measure and post Model Memories bridge.

    Gary
  13. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    Back again with another question. It is a bridge question, not catenary, but thought since I'd started here I ought to continue here. Can't hurt to bump the thread too! I've assembled some CV girders and built up the sides of one bridge. The mock up I built first is behind the new sides in the photos. You can see I have quite a skew and was hoping someone can tell me how a real bridge would construct the deck carrying the ties and rail. Would there be two single track decks or one double track deck? Thanks for any info.

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  14. zedob

    zedob Member

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    Try this. Double tracked and skewed all in one.

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  15. zedob

    zedob Member

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    This is a different bridge, but gives you an idea of how the tracks were supported. This is a double tracked bridge.

    If you don't have a copy of Model RRer's Bridges and Trestles , get it. I highly recommend it.

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  16. shortliner

    shortliner Member

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    Gary - could you have the catenary wire ,ending at the walll, fitted into some fine Brass tube knocked into the wall-board. If you ever remove it plastering over the tiny holes should be no problem? The other way would be to take them to the bridge and not continue them beyond it - The bridge will attract the eye and not notice the fact that the catenary isn't there for the short distance beyond
    Shortliner(Jack) away up here in the Highlands
  17. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Those are great shots zedob, I think that answers Gary`s ?

    Gary once the bridge is built with all the structure and added trees grass bushes etc the overhead will just fade in to the distance as eyes will be else were.

    Looking forward to your progress pictures. ;)
  18. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    Great photos Zedob, thanks. I have an idea of how to proceed, have ordered some plastruct parts and will have at it when they arrive. Jack, I think I'll be fine with the catenary just touching the wall but not attached. This way I can remove the whole shebang for maintenance of the JGL main if (when) needed. Chris, I'll post some progress shots as I go!

    Thanks, Gary
  19. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    I'm back. I was away from modeling for several months. In the last week I attempted to solder the caternary wire to the bridges. Wow! I have new earned respect for all you who build working caternary. Luckily for me, there won't be any operation under mine. I gave up solder and used super glue. The attached shot looked better before I had to reduce it to meet the max allowed here. I'm going to have to paint a bit of right of way on the backdrop, but not too much. I had read that the wires should be painted the green of oxidinf copper. At this point, prior to weathering, it is too stark. My thought is to apply weathered black from above, to appear as grime. Any suggestions?

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  20. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

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    A view from a bit of a distance to show the corner I'm working in. The white styrene wall with window cutouts is my current project. Brick to be applied soon, windows are built and ready. What will make this a bit of an experiment will be the neaon sign I hope to put above the windows. I'm also busy casting cut stone wall sections, as seen in the photo. The white foamcore in front of the corridor will be those castings. A building will be to the left of where the foamcore ends, hiding the tracks hitting the corner. What do you think?

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