Bye Bye F7!!

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by ross31r, Apr 3, 2005.

  1. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    6"-7" Street and 10" mainline i think, should make the big beasts work for their living and keep train lengths resonably short. Besides, my biggest car is only going to be about 50ft long (once i find a suitable passenger car and a cab kit for them), I already have a tiny loco to haul my limited`s 36ft luxury cars.

    Just hoping that i can mill the Athearn frames enough to allow that sort of bogie swivel for that curvature whithout loosing drive!
  2. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    well now ive hit a bugger - i cant figure out how to mill the athearn frames. the shell is complete and ready to go on but i cant alter the chassis to allow it to fit!
  3. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Hello hello hello said the bobbie to the three headed burgular :eek:

    I take it the white metal frame tha holds the motor and wheels /gear box assemblies
    neds to be shortend as the body you have scratchbuilt is a tad to small?

    It is white Metal chassie Ross? :p
  4. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    err, i dunno, im still using the standard Athearn frame, would it be easier to make a new one then?

    Body i have scracthbuilt is exactly the right length to drop straight over the original chassis without problems provided i can get the chassis to clear the bogies around sharp bends and bevel the flat end to fit inside the bulldog nose.
  5. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Can you post picture so we can get a better idea. :cool:
  6. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    yeah will get some progress pictures up tomorrow, haven only got half of the pictures downloaded ATM but will get them up.
  7. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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  8. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    The bits i want to mill off are the end of the frame wher it is perfectly square to match the other end and the inset sections around the bogies which prevent them from tuning more sharply.
  9. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Drop the whole wheel assemblies out at both ends, then release the motor carefuly.
    Now where the wheels fit, using a fiberglass dremal cutting wheel shim all 4 corners on both ends in a V shape .This will allow more turning ability.

    Hope you can still shim to allow the body to fit, if not make the body bigger hehehe. :wave:
  10. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    the body is long enough to exactly match the length of the frame - the difficult bit is tapering the ends in at the full width end to fit under the bulldog nosed end thats going there instead
  11. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

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    You could cut the end off the frame where the shell starts to curve inward and body mount the coupler.
    Or, splice the front of another frame onto that end at the bolster.
  12. Greg Elems

    Greg Elems Member

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    In post #27, the third picture reminds me of the Keddie Wye on the old Western Pacific. Very cool.

    Greg Elems
    Reno, NV
    USA
  13. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    Thats because it IS a model of the Keddie Wye!!!! its on my club layout, have a search for the Seaboard Southern in the NMRA British Region, will find the web address for you later if you want.

    Good thing i have two F7A frames, i was thinking of cutting the frame down the centre of the fuel tanks and splicing them together there.
  14. Honger

    Honger Member

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    Bench Grinder time?

    Having spliced two F7A cabs together for a similar project, I also ran into the same problem with the frame. I removed all the parts and just used a bench grinder to make the square end of the frame allow the bulldog nose of the shell to fit... worked like a champ. Need a pic? I could try to post one up tonight.

    I wouldn't cut the frame in half though... that seams like a lot more work than grinding the frame to allow the shell to fit. Or am I missing some reason you don't want to do that?

    Joel
  15. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    a picture would be greatly appreciated, but i have no idea what a bench grinder is, dont think we have them here in the UK.

    I suppose i should actually clarify what i am doing.
    I am cutting the corrdior (B) end off of one A unit approximately at the first seam line behind (ie towards the cab end) of the rearmost side door. The second A unit is having its cab removed from a point just behind the cab door and the cab/nose section will be joined onto the remaining cab shell section of the first A unit to create a twin-ended "streamlined" freight motor in the style of the CNJ "babyface" twin-ended diesels.
  16. Honger

    Honger Member

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    I'll give it a try... lets see if I can figure it out.
    [​IMG]
    And one more showing a close up of what I did to the frame.
    [​IMG]
    Basically I grinded the sides of the frame down until the shell would fit over it. The length I spliced the shells to made it so the existing coupler pads would be useable through the holes in the pilots.
    Ah, one more thing... clicky to see a bench grinder kind of like what I used.
  17. interurban

    interurban Active Member

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    Nice Honger, :thumb:
    Please post the finished model :cool:

    How do you cut the body? Carefuly I know :p :rolleyes:
  18. ross31r

    ross31r Member

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    lol, i think i better get my ass in gear to finish BM2 then
  19. Ralph

    Ralph Remember...it's for fun!

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    This better be good Honger because looking at cut up F units makes me cry! :) Just kidding. Good luck on this interesting project!
    Ralph
  20. Greg Elems

    Greg Elems Member

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    The link would be nice, thank you. Are you making a double ended diesel or an electric? Australia had a neat double ended unit, a B Class. It ran on the first production SD trucks though. Or as rebuilt into an A Class as in this picture link.

    http://www.railroadforums.com/photos/data/589/4033DVC00358.JPG

    Another interesting point about these engines is they are broad gauge, 5' 3".

    Greg