Building the Super Corsair

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Willja67, Oct 11, 2006.

  1. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Outer wing panel

    Okay next installment. But before I begin I'll just say that I guess there is interest in this thread because the view count is so high. Kind of surprised me that I actually had more views on this thread for a time than Golden Bear did on his Nieuport thread and I had about half as many posts at the time. I would continue this thread regardless just cause it's good customer support but I do like feedback.

    Okay the outer wing frame is pretty simple.

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    Note the little blue piece on the outside of H5 in the first pic, the blue or printed side should be the other way ie I put the left wing piece there. That by the way is the outermost flap hinge.

    It is a good idea to wrap the frame with strips of paper so that the frame doesn't start showing through the skin. Notice I didn't wrap the inner most rib, the little tabs that stick out of the inboard wing skin does the trick for that rib as shown here:

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    The above pic shows the wing skin pieces after I cut out the flaps and ailerons so that I could build the wing with seperate control surfaces. The connecting strip needs to be cut to avoid the trips glued onto the frame and clipped off where the aileron was.

    I had a DUH! realization about connecting strips while looking at Fluthercranks build of a Japanese fighter. I always wondered why some kits had the connecting strips colored when they wouldn't be visible and it hit me while looking at my model that all the places that I couldn't get the seams tight(my lousy building skills not fit problems in the model) you could see white and it looks like crap. So I finally realized why they do it like that it's all for me!! How sweet and thoughtful. You don't get that luxury on this model though.

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    Here I've installed the connecting strip and the piece that goes in front of the aileron. Originally I had this as a integral part of the frame but decided I like this way better. Just line the part up with the bottom wing skin. The part where the tabs split is also where the outer bottom wing panel starts.

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    Unlike the inboard section of skin start on the top with the outer wing. Although not visible in this pic there there is a notch near the top of the N that helps line up the part nicely.

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    #74 had 9 inches clipped off each wing tip and the difference with # 57's stock tip is shown to good advantage here.

    Here are 2 more views of the clipped wing tip:

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    I wish to note that I'm just a lousy builder and that although a little tough to do this will look good if done by someone with more skill than I.

    The outermost flap is pretty straight forward as shown in these pics:

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    It's kind of difficult to see in this pic but there is the same "ramp" as I call it in front of the outboard flap as in front of the inboard flaps. The piece was intentionally left a little big (it sticks out the back a little) but it is no big deal to trim it off once glued in.

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    Here the flap is glued in place. The gap between it and the middle flap is a about twice as big as it should be. Moral of this story is to wait and install all the flaps at the same time cause things like this will happen if you get overanxious. The inboard hinge is exactly like the outboard hinge for the middle flap so I won't show it as there is no need.

    Aileron

    The aileron is a little tricky to build. I mentioned in my Designing the F2G thread about the design of the ailerons and I tried to stay true to that. The GPM Corsair for instance has a greatly simplified
    design.

    Here's how I did mine:

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    The hinge line of the aileron is right down the middle of the four little ovals you see so about 1/16" up from the line that runs the length of the aileron.

    On page one there are several patterns for the wire components and one of them is the aileron hinge as shown here:

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    It is W4 and as you can see I only give one view of it. There are some dashed lines crossing the diagram at 2 points and these show where it should be bent in the vertical plane and there is a construction diagram showing it's final shape. As you can see I've already formed it but I accidentally did it backwards (for the left wing instead of the right). If you look close in the next pics you can see the difference.

    My method (you may find a better one) of installing the hinge was to glue a strip of 1/16" posterboard on either side of the hinge put the hinge inbetween and then glue strips over the top of the hinge to hold it down as shown:

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    There are 2 little circles in the piece directly in front of the aileron that I mentioned previously that the ends of the hinge insert into and voila it moves!

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    As this is some of the trickier stuff on the model I would like to know if this is adequate to help you build it? Please Please pretty please will you tell me if it's okay?:???:
  2. gwssms

    gwssms Member

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    Will,
    I am enjoying this build thread very much. When I finally have the courage to begin on my Super Corsair this will be my Bible. :) Unfortunately when it comes to modelling, "my eyes are bigger than my stomach", as my dad used to say. I have several models that I do not know if I'll ever be good enough to build, this being one of them. That being said, I really believe that this is a top notch, world class model and the care you have taken to make it right is completely unique in this hobby. Keep up the good work!
    Gary
  3. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Only One Way

    Hi Will,

    Your build is looking great! I really like the way the flaps imitate the real thing, that is a great piece of design work.

    There's only one way to get better at building, practice, practice, practice followed by an analysis of what went wrong again and trying to do better on the next try. The one really great thing about an all digital model is that if a piece build doesn't turn out well you can always print out another and start over a rare luxury not to be had with the printed variety unless they're scanned first (opens up a whole new regime of issues though).

    By the way, you have an attentive audience so on with the show!

    Best regards, -Gil
  4. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Thanks guys for the comments. Due to the fact that I was over eager to release the model and there are people waiting for it still (I hope) I'm skipping around and building the parts that haven't been test built yet. I think I'm getting close to being able to resume sales. And when that happens I think #74 will also be ready.

    Tonights installment is the vertical tail and rudder. There are a couple differences between #74's tail and #57's, the main one being that Cook Cleland swapped the rudder off his FG-1 Corsair with #74's (save weight and drag). The Corsair had a 2 degree offset built into the vertical tail to counteract the left turning tendencies that all propeller driven aircraft are susceptable to and it is quite obvious on my model of #57 but for #74 I got rid of the offset for the reason that nowadays unlimited racers have the offset taken out because it causes drag and I have made the assumption that Cleland did the same but I don't know that for sure(actually he probably didn't but I don't want to change it back but in either case I don't know).

    A lot of models have fairly elaborate frames for every part of the model but I wanted to try a different approach to simplify construction and this is what I came up with:

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    Note how the main vertical spar is set in a little from the trailing edge of the fin? The leading edge of the rudder is stuck in this channel and so the white is not visible when the rudder is installed. The whole assembly is quite sturdy so my mission to avoid using a frame was successful. It must be noted however that I use 110lb cardstock and a lesser weight might compromise the strength somewhat.

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    Here is the fin and base installed on the fuselage. Note the black cylinder at just above where the leading edge of the horizontal stab will be. That is the pivot for the base of the rudder.

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    This shows the upper hinge for the rudder. All it is is a section of paper clip with a 90 degree bend in it and a strip of paper wrapped around it. The strip of paper is not a printed part in the kit I just cut out a little strip wrapped it around the wire and then glued it in place like so:

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    I think the rest of the rudder construction is pretty intuitive just looking at the pics so I'll show the sequence without a lot of verbage:

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    After assembly of the rudder it is put in place over the previously mentioned black cylinder and the upper hinge is inserted into the hole marked in the fin.

    As mentioned above #57 had a auxilliary rudder underneath the main one that only deflected when the flaps were lowered. There are parts associated with the fin and the rudder that aren't shown here but I beleive the instructions are sufficient to show how to install those parts. The black cylinder is just taller so that both the aux rudder and the main can slide over top of it and there is a line on the base that shows the angle that the aux rudder should be placed at if the flaps are built in the extended position.

    It should be noted that the light blue lines running through the parts are a product of my printer running low on ink and nothing wrong with the kit itself.

    As always if there are any questions feel free to ask
  5. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

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    Looking great Will!
    And, YES, I'm still in line and waiting for this baby!

    As a matter of fact, I am going to pull my refilling cartridge out of the printer and buy a new OEM cart, just so I can get the best possible print for this one.
    After all the hard work you've put into the design, I think she deserves the red carpet treatment!

    Russell
  6. OldSalt

    OldSalt Member

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    This build thread will be of great value when the revised #57 is available. I have been "practicing" on the original version I bought from Gremir. I hope you will be making #74 available for purchase also!
  7. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    I'm pretty sure that #74 will be available at the same time and I'm thinking of augmenting the #57 kit with both the 1949 version and the present day version. I've already designed the new carburator scoop it would just be a matter of changeing the paint job a little. Price would stay the same. Im also thinking of releasing the other 2 Cleland racers(#84 and #94) in the same package ie 2 for $16 dollars for the simple reason that they both have really simple paint jobs and the work I've had to do for #74 means I've pretty much already got them ready.

    Also in the works is a military version (maybe a couple in the same package) with bomb racks and zero length rocket launchers.
  8. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Military versions - now you're talking! I'd be very interested in that.

    Rick
  9. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

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    Super Corsair is available again.

    I'm pleased to announce that F2G-1 Super Corsair is available again.
    Model now contains two versions of the plane - in original configuration from 1949 and after the renovation in 1999.
    Please visit http://www.gremirmodels.com/f2g_super_corsair.htm for more information.
  10. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Canopy

    This post deals with building the canopy. From other build threads I've seen I know my methods are not the best but they work.

    First cut out all relevant parts. I then use Alenes tacky glue to glue the transparency pattern onto the report cover I use (can't remember the correct material name) and allow to dry completely.

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    After the glue has dried cut out around the outlines. I am building the model with the canopy open so I detatched the windscreen. I then use a pair of needlenose plyers to bend the part where the transparent part joins the frame:

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    Once that is done peel the paper off the clear stuff it should seperate quite easily.

    I will start with the windscreen:

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    This part is the base of the windscreen and needs to be carefully formed before it is attatched, below is a view of the above part after installation:

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    After doing the initial and basic forming of the part the white portions need to be bent upwards. I used the tips of my needlenose pliers to do that.

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    In the above pic I have already glued the outer frame to the windscreen (note that I also bent the part with pliers like the sliding portion).

    The part on the right is the inner frame and is shaped and glued in place like so:

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    As mentioned before I get carried away when building and don't document properly so I had to use #74 as the example. I had the windscreen installed on it but the tacky glue doesn't stand much abuse and the transparent portion popped off but it shows how the part is to be installed. Don't whatever you do glue the base of the windscreen and the inner frame together! The transparent portion needs to inserted between them.

    I think I'll take a break here and do the sliding portion of the canopy later.
  11. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

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  12. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Plastic Super Corsairs in this thread! That is heresy! Why buy that thing when mine is available and much better?

    Look at this:

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    This is my beta build with all the mistakes in it and IMNSHO it still looks fantastic (I'm actually going to finish it and give it to my dad for Christmas, shh don't tell him that). I bet that thing doesn't have flaps like this!

    Anyone else for stringing Tim up:twisted:

    Merry Christmas to all.
  13. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Tim's post got me on one. I don't think I've been blowing my own horn enough. I'm sick of being modest. Look at this:

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    When I'm done I'm going to have my professional photographer brother take some really nice pics of it then you all can see just how good even the beta build is!
  14. josve

    josve Active Member

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    You got me on this one Will!!
    Great building thread!
    Now i soon have to get my printer filled up...
    I just got to have this one also...
  15. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Looks like a museum quality model. When I get one and actually build it I'll be vacuum forming that bubble.
  16. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to seeing good builders take a stab at it. I am definately not one of the great builders, but I might be moving towards being a better than average designer.
  17. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    You interested in making extra to sell? ;)

    Rick

  18. sparrowhawk

    sparrowhawk Member

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    I have been following this thread with intense interest, as I like civil conversions of military aircraft (shame nobody ever raced the DeHavilland Mosquito!). Now my question: You are demonstrating the build of the blue Super Corsair, racing number 74, whilst the Corsair available at Gremir Models is the red Corsair 57. Will those models be available separately or will they be part of a package?

    Greetings, Martin
  19. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    #74 will be available sometime in the near future. I could probably have my part of it done and to Mike at Gremir in 2 days if I really started working on it. Right now #57 is the only version available and it comes in two different versions the 1949 version and post restoration version (1999). So they will be available seperately. I'm thinking that I'll do a discount deal for those who have bought #57 can get #74 for a few bucks less.

    As long as the subject has kind of been brought up I would like opinions. Do you want to see 2 versions of #74 in one kit (there were some differences between 1947 when it won the Thompson Trophy and 1949 when it was left to rot and will be presumeably be restored very close to that same configuration) or I have been contemplating doing 1 version of #74 with #94 in the same kit.

    My other alternative was to do the 2 #74's in 1 kit and another with #84 (crashed in it's only race) and #94 so anyone who wanted could have all the Cook Cleland owned racers.

    And just so you know I've started work on a couple of military versions but I don't make any promises as to when they'll be done

    One reason I haven't been too quick getting to #74 is that I haven't finished the model yet and have no pics to post on the sale page.

    Which brings up one more question: Now that #57 is done and the design validated would anyone have major qualms about buying the newer versions if I haven't built them? What if I only made some kind of cover art for the sale page?
  20. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

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    Choices, choices, so many choices!

    Let me see, we have 2 #74, an #84 and a #94 and maybe military versions later.
    I don't really have a preferance as to what combination of release you have in mind. Any way you slice it, 2 versions in 1 kit is a bargain!:grin:

    As far as building test versions; All the kits are based on the master plan which has already been build verified so I wouldn't think you should have to test build every version. I think just building the parts that have major modifications is enough, just to make sure it works before release.

    This is a spectacular model Will and I will take my copy any way you release it!:-D
    By the way, when #74 is ready, go ahead and send me a bill for it, including shipping via media mail. I want a professionaly printed copy!

    Russell