Build: Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero, 1:33, Halinski 3/2005

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by rlwhitt, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    I here you man. I started on the GPM F-15 a few years ago. They "tortured' you with installing every rib in the wells, but when it came time to skin the frame they didn't mention installing the things. Being a Noob, I thought they'd figured a way to put'em in later, you can imagine! Anyways, this is shapeing up to a spectacular kit and build, great progress and well wishes, and very well done!
  2. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Wow, that's even thicker than I thought. But that's certainly the way I'm going to start doing things. I don't like working with that 3M spray (though I love the results), so the less of that needed the better!

    Rick

  3. Gil

    Gil Active Member

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    Working with 3M Spray

    Hi Rick, 3M spray can be a lot more friendlier if you place the sheet or sheets to be sprayed into an empty cardboard box large enough to easily contain them. You should have several inches of clearance around the edges. The sides of the box shouldn't be any higher than 6-8 inches. The box helps contain the over spray and improves the amount of material applied.

    Also a large Costco style cereal box plus a sheet of 67#-110# paper bonded with 3M spray yields a 1 mm thickness. Just lightly wipe the glaze coat off the printed side of the box before bonding the printed card stock to it...,

    -Gil
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Carl, 2 100 lb cardstock plus one layer of printed parts is 1 mm thick for you? Or is the 100# referring to something else? I wonder if I mismeasured when I needed 5 total layers of 110 lb to get one mm. measure twice cut once..... but I thought I measured like 5 times.
    Chris
  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Good tip, that seems like it will be much better, as this stuff does get EVERYWHERE! My last session I did outside rather than in the garage, but it's still a mess.

  6. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Chris......... he means 100# Bristol Board.......... it's way thicker than card stock.

    And I too learned to spray that stuff OUTSIDE........... the caps is they way the wife says it!

    john
  7. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    thanks john, thought I was losing it. I spray my adhesive in the basement inside a big box and it still gives my arms a coating of the darn stuff.
    Chris
  8. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Moving along with the wing skins, I decided that for me it made sense to join the 2 ready skins together with the piece they mate with at the back. Seemed like the best way to get good tight seams.

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  9. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit. Seems like I did this 1000 times for these skins to figure out where everything would land, but I kept coming up with this problem here. This one rib looks too far outboard (both sides!). Real headscratcher to me as the whole wing framework is slotted and will only go together one way. So no way I could have "shifted" this right? Oh, well, stop guessing why and on to fixing it.

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  10. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    I cut the ends off and shifted them in:

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  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    All this shifting messed up the colored parts that plate the formers in the aileron slot, so I reprinted some bits from scans. Color mismatches of course, probably should have replaced the whole length, but I'm lazy. The installed ailerons will cover it.

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  12. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Time to start gluing things down. I started at the aileron slots, as they need to be right to start with. Then proceed with the rest of the lower center and wrap around to the top of the skins.

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  13. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Another problem I had with fit was that I had to trim the former bits that sit behind the wheel wells so that the skins would go back far enough to reach the edges of the aileron slots.

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  14. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Here's the bottom skins done being attached, ready to wrap around to the top. This view is just to show what the stuff looks like at this point, because I had trouble visualizing it before I saw it.

    FYI, there is a funky shaped part that is part of the forward fuselage that wraps around the the bottom and covers up the gap you see between the wheel wells. Just as a sanity check, I printed a scanned version of the part and cut it out and and dry fitted it just to see how it worked. I'm starting to think this may be a good use of scans, to test fits and practice new stuff that you don't have to worry about messing up.

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  15. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Jumping ahead to the finished wing, after putting on the tip skins as well.

    Got to say I'm not terribly happy with this overall. Most of it's OK, but especially around the transition to the tips things are pretty rough (my sub-par work). I also had to trim the tip skins at the aileron slots to make it all line up right.

    It seems like there were a lot of alignment issues here. Certainly not ready to blame design (expect maybe for that rib out of place), but it did not seem to fall into place like I sort of expected.

    The lesson to take away if you build this is to spend a LOT of time dry fitting and adjusting.

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  16. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Cockpit

    Next step is to start the cockpit. Since I've got English instructions, I'm going to follow them as closely as possible and see what happens. ;)

    First batch of parts to assemble shown here. It's getting late and I'm not ready for any more gluing today, so this'll close things out for now...

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  17. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Just going by the instructions, they specifically start with the wings on this one. I know it's different, but I thought I'd try it their way!

    I know what you mean about being scared of the adjustment. I agonized over it. Left, came back, left, came back, rinse, repeat... but what was I to do? If I did not fix it, the ribs would be sticking out there with no skin on them! Everything else was lining up. Heck with my luck I'll probably find that the aileron does not fit at all! :grin: No, actually, I measured it with a d**m ruler just to be sure it WOULD fit, paranoid that I am now...

    Yes, the wing did end up looking pretty much fine - I'm my own worst critic as we all are. Sometimes I'm thinking digital photography is both the best and worst thing that can exist for card models. Without it, these forums pretty much could not exist. But decently close pics always point out all the worst flaws, sometimes things that look fine "in person". Well, except for these wing tip transitions - they really do suck. :)

    .... step away from the card model man... look, it's made of paper right? How perfect can ground up trees and white glue look dude? Go get a drink or something, chill....

    ...wound WAY too tight....

    Rick

  18. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    I know how you feel about the close ups showing the worse of a small blemish. You overcame, improvised, adapted, you are a cardmodeler man! Drink up, take a break, then back at it! You are a Cardmodeler! Doing a great job with materials 99% of the planet thinks are for scribbling or wipeing things off with. Anyways enough for the Lombardi talk. Take a break from it and come back fresh.
  19. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Cockpit, continued...

    The first batch of cockpit parts assembled. This is a good place to make sure that bulkhead is square with floor else other stuff will be messed up later!

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  20. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    The next batch of parts to go in, the "floor equipment"

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