Build: Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero, 1:33, Halinski 3/2005

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by rlwhitt, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    My recently completed Hellcat needs an opponent, so here we go to build a Zero to go with her! This is a step up in complexity from the Hellcat, with separate control surfaces, more cockpit detail, and a 14 cylinder radial motor. There's also a lot more "framework" here built of laminated parts.

    Yet another new challenge for me, there does not seem to be a build thread on this subject either here or on the German forums I look at, so I'm really working without a safety net here, with no crutch to lean on! I hope this goes well enough to contribute something to the knowledge base for others. Since there's not already a build thread on it, I'll try to be a little more detailed and step by step than my Hellcat thread.

    One optional build decision to make in this kit is whether to build it with the wingtips folded, as parked on a carrier deck, or with them extended in flight config. This is not a fancy foldable hinge thing like the Aichi Val, it's static one way or the other. I think for me they will look better extended, so that's how I will do it. It will save a little build complexity as well.

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  2. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    The kit contains a bit over 800 parts on 5 large sheets of printed parts on card stock, plus a bit more than one sheet of paper to be laminated onto thicker card. Many parts on the printed sheets are to be laminated as well, some to 1mm cardboard, some to 0.5mm, and some to Bristolboard. I'm using my own laminates of 110 lb stock, laminated with 3M 77 spray. Two sheets of the stock I'm using (Hammermill) makes an almost perfect 0.5mm thickness (~ .52) and 4 sheets laminated makes a pretty close to 1mm (~ 1.08 ). For the Bristolboard, I'm just laminating to 1 sheet of this stock.

    There are over 70 drawings and sub-drawings here of the nice 3D variety that Halinski has done since around 2001. Below is a picture of part of a typical page of drawings. They are very nice looking and clearer than the older line drawings. They are more accurate it seems. But they almost look TOO good, better than the model ever will!

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  3. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

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    Cool!!!
    Another Jap plane being build :grin:

    Word of caution...Engine nacelle has misprinted panel line. Corrected part was included with the Me 109F or can be obtained from Halinsli's website http://halinski.com.pl/download/a6m2.pdf
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    oooohhh looking forward to this! I dont know why but I kind of fancy japanese planes.
    Chris
  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Thanks for that tip! At least they don't make you buy another kit to get this one!

  6. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Me too, I think they made some nice looking hardware. Simple elegance, clean lines, or something like that.

    Rick

  7. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Also watching with great interest, Good luck, 800 parts! This should be great, got a case of Brew and some pretzels, this should be better'n the playoffs this year!
  8. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    The obligatory wing former picture...

    This kit may be a little different in that the instructions lead you to start with the wings. Right off you have to decide about those wing tips - folded or not. If you want them folded, you've got to cut some parts out of the spars in this picture and put in some extra (colored) rib parts. Since I won't be doing this, that's all I'll be saying about that!

    This wing is built in one piece, and then joined to the bottom of the fuselage.

    One note about the main spar. I've been laminating my own 1mm stock from sheets of regular card stock. This spar is longer than a sheet, so I had a delima. I could have searched around for cardboard of the correct thickness, but I did not feel like fooling with it, so I built up a double wide piece of 1mm laminate by staggering the sheets with half sheets cut down the middle, like this:

    -------- --------
    ---- -------- ----
    -------- --------
    ---- -------- ----

    I've seen several kits with long parts, so I figure this sheet will get many more uses!

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  9. josve

    josve Active Member

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    Yummi yummi!!
    I'm really looking forward to this one!!
    Models with lots of details and a lot of parts are my favourites :)
  10. Texman

    Texman Guest

    (Sniff, Sniff) - And another one takes the unaccomanied leap from the nest!
    They grow up so fast! Can't wait for the next installment.

    Ray
  11. milenio3

    milenio3 Active Member

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    A plane thread to drool...

    Bring it on, Rick!!
  12. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    The center section of the wing formers. Not obvious from the drawing, but should be from the shape of the internal parts, that rear "spar" gets bent at an angle. The vacant slot at the rear will accept a fuselage former later when the wing gets locked into the fuse.

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  13. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    I almost missed this one. There are a few non-laminated wing parts, namely W1gL/P and W1nL/P. They need to be glued to the parts f and o respectively BEFORE assembly.

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  14. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Finished wing "bones":

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  15. paper warrior

    paper warrior Member

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    When you finish this one you'll have to make something for it to fight.
  16. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    I was in a craft store tonight and saw the pads of Bristol in varying sizes. Too bad I didn't have this before! It looked a lot coarser and thicker than the stuff I have - I'm guessing it might take only 3 sheets to make 1mm? I'm going to look into that after this model. Thanks for the tip!

    Rick

  17. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Next we'll put together the wheel wells as part of the prep work for the wing skins. Picture is of one well assembled and one set of parts.

    A couple of tips here. The floor of the well must be curved up on the colored side prior to assembly. In this particular assembly, the well walls glue to the OUTSIDE of the floor. Finally, I learned that it's easiest to glue the walls down one side of the thin long section, then put the little bits in, and finally glue the second long wall around. First time I glued all walls, then inserted the little bits. Much easier the other way around!

    Oh yeah, I made good use of another tool on those little saddle shaped parts. I've got one of those leather punch tools that makes 1mm - 5mm or so holes, and I found that very handy to cut those semi-circles in the saddle parts.

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  18. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    One side of wing skin parts:

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  19. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    This next bit is called in the instructions an "Empy Case Chute". Since it sits right behind the wing machine gun, I assume that means this is where the empty shell cartidges were ejected. It's interesting that Halinski chose to model this thing in such deep 3D form, even though you'll see hardly any of it once assembled into the wings.

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  20. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    One wing skin with wheel well and chute attached, ready for attachment to the "bones". One observation here of a relative newbie, albeit one that tries to pay attention and anticipate things. Nowhere in the instructions do they actually mention putting the wheel well in BEFORE skinning the wing. Now, I know this is pretty obvious if you've done it even ONCE, or if you just sit around and noodle this thing a minute and look at the drawings and are hopefully dry fitting things, but if someone (heaven help them) were trying this sort of model for one of their first, they'd no doubt be in trouble.

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