Build: Goodyear F2G Super Corsair, 1:32, Gremir

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by rlwhitt, Jan 27, 2007.

  1. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Boy Rick you keep impressing me. I made a real mess of that assembly myself. You're right the wire works a lot better especially true for the hydraulic actuator on the main gears. The bigger size paper clip with the thicker gauge wire works perfectly for that. Also when you get to the rest of the tail gear assembly soaking it in CA would be a good idea to stiffen it up. Also I left off the little hinge/mounts that connect the assembly to the bulkhead.
  2. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Thanks!

    I did in fact soak the edges of this bracket with CA and then painted the edges. It's nice and strong now!

    Rick

  3. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Finished tail wheel, and the parts to create the wheel well.

    I'm going to wait 'till near the end to put the wheel in to avoid damage. If you go this route, you need to make sure those struts are position correctly to fit with the bulkhead before it dries!

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  4. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Here is the completed well, viewing inside.

    Had a bit of excitement here, and several PMs with Will resolved things. That former with the V-shaped notch there - on the wheel well part itself there is a white line left to indicate where formers go and the one where I *thought* this one was to be placed is drawn at the back edge of the wheel opening. No way it'd fit and I started carving it down and never got it right, made a mess. Will then confirmed that it's supposed to go where you see it in the picture here - he'll redraw the guide line on the part for the future.

    The fun didn't stop there, as I got the former in slightly rotated in my second attempt, which just could not be left that way. So, this is the 3rd iteration!

    I might suggest that the builder go ahead and draw some centering tick marks before assembly. Will, might not be a bad idea to draw those into the parts as well. This section can easily be messed up with poorly centered parts.

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  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Here be the outer skin of the tail. Some might prefer to wrap & glue the skin to the wheel well inner skin (and maybe it's designed that way, that little "tail" on the wheel well part seems to be a joining strip), but I find it easier for me to do this way, then slip the inner skin inside.

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  6. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Tail piece added to fuselage.

    More high drama to be had here. Don't know if it's something I did, but the section the tail part mates with seemed a good bit too big and I had myself a good bit of extra skin to deal with. I could not seem to get it all fitting happy as it was, so I slit the bottom of the section and pulled it tight from below and then attempted to patch things up down there.

    The seam is quite crappy as you might imagine when you have to cajole things together in this way. I'm hoping the bright shiny finish will hide some of this mess...

    I'm tired of fighting dead trees for today - ready to watch some football (and commercials)!!

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  7. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Oh yeah, Will I see one thing here - it looks like the logo (which says SOHIO on the other side) is messed up here. Looks like the O got slid over the I)

    And a question. I see that the vertical stab is not centered on the top of the tail - why is that? Please tell me I did not mess something else up THAT bad!

    Rick
  8. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Most propeller driven aircraft have the vertical tail offset like shown to counter the left turning tendencies inherent in prop driven aircraft. The engines torque, the slipstream rotating around the fuselage and hitting the rudder and the fact that the right side of the prop disc generates more thrust all contribute to the plane wanting to turn left under high power low speed conditions. One way around that was to offset the vertical tail as you've noticed. One of the big mods made to aircraft for racing is to straighten up the fin so it doesn't cause drag at race speeds.

    As for the fit problems I'll go through and see if I can find a reason for them. Seems like no matter how hard I try I always forget something or screw something up.
  9. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Well Rick I had Rhino measure the joining edge of each of the pieces in question and the Tail cone section is 3.8615" long and the edge of the piece with the Sohio logo is 3.8616" long so you are right it's a little too long but I can't see 1/10,000 of an inch being a problem. I'll keep looking for the reason but I don't know if I can find it.
  10. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Well, I guessed as much. I must have messed something up....

    Hey, at least the Colts won the game!

  11. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Aaarrrrrrgggghhhhhhh!!!!!!!!
  12. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Moving along with the tail section. Here is the vertical fin and fairings. The black post forms the lower hinge for both the auxilliary and regular rudders.

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  13. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    And here is the aux rudder on the hinge. As the history information discussed, this was added to counteract the torque of that huge engine at low speeds, so it would automatically deflect to the right as the flaps were lowered.

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  14. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Looking good Rick! One note on the main rudder, I noticed on mine that it has kind of a sucked in look at the top so stuffing some cotton or something to keep the sides pushed out a little might be a wise idea.
  15. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Sounds like a good spot to put some of those "spreading strips" for wont of a better term. Cut a strip of stock, bend it down the middle into a "V" shape and let it take care of keeps edges and stuff puffed out. I'll make a picture...

  16. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Rudder parts. Of note here is the hinge wire. You wrap some thin paper around some wire formed into an L shape to form the top hinge.

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  17. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Here's the rudder a bit further along, with the hinge glued in. Shown inside the circle is a piece of card stock folded and glued a few mm from the edge. When you close the structure up, this serves to help keep things spread out, not pinched too slim. I used a similar piece in the top part of the rudder as well.

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  18. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Rudder mostly complete, awaiting the top section.

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  19. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Rudder done and installed. Not a great seam there at the top :(

    I wicked a little drop of CA into the hole where the hinge wire enters the vertical stab (quickly pushing it all the way in!) to hold it in place.

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  20. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Next up are the horozontal stabs. Here is the spar glued into the fuse, plus one of the stabs prior to glueing on.

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