Build: Goodyear F2G Super Corsair, 1:32, Gremir

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by rlwhitt, Jan 27, 2007.

  1. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Spars installed. Make sure as you put these on you have the fuselage
    centerline plumb, so the wings will be aligned properly! You can of course do this by sight, but I have a tiny bubble level I held up to the center while the front spars rested on the mat to adjust things. Then the rear spar will go on last and again put it down on the mat and adjust the fuselage until the front spars are the same distance from the mat.

    Make sure you orient the 2nd spar such that the color part is facing to the rear.

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  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Looking great man! Do Will proud :)
    Chris
  3. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Next we continue with the skins that go around the wing spars. The first one is in two pieces, an upper and lower part. They get joined together at the wing roots with the D2 parts you see here (be sure to realize that there is a Right and Left!), that also serve as joining strips for the root of the wing skins. You'll want to score those lines at the base of the tabs.

    The tab strip at the top comes from the 'F' series parts sheet and is shown in the drawing on that sheet, but you really want to put it into part D1 before putting it on. :)

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  4. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    And here are those parts installed. I got a bit carried away with the paint on that join strip! :)

    See in the white circled area I've got a bit of a bump. This is from the bottom of the cockpit. You want to be careful here and not handle things too much, or this can happen. I also made the mistake of bending the tab behind here under the cockpit floor (see previous pics, you should see it). I think if you don't do that, it will help avoid this showing through.

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  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    The next set of parts, including the rest of the wing root tab strips. I think it's pretty evident what's going on here. The part on the right in the circle was not part of the design. My prefererred way of working is to form the skins such as this into their circles first, and then slide them on. I wanted a joining strip to do mine, so that what this is.

    I like the way the design is keeping seams under the wing roots where possible. It will make the bottom look much nicer!

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  6. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    And the parts from last post installed.

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  7. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    And the parts from last post installed.
  8. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    This next part was a little confusing to me at first. I had to study the drawing and cut out the F8 former and dry fit it and see where thing were going to go. The parts in the picture show a general orientation. One thing that is not immediately obvious is that you need to cut a notch in the side pieces as shown in the circle, the same size as the ones in the bottom piece.

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  9. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    The main parts from the previous pic. Note the folds, making these parts slope downward toward the front. The exhaust pipes will come out from under the cowl along these slopes.

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  10. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    This picture shows the completed set of parts with the former in and the small parts formed around the tabs. This is as far as I'm going forward at this point.

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  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Heading toward the back, let's stop and finish out these inside wing structural parts to firm up the spars before we move to the tail section. They will form the inside of the wheel wells.

    You can see in this picture one of my crappy seams. I'll take the blame for this - so far I think the fit on this design has been excellent! Rest assured, if I find a fit issue that I think is not my own fault, I will bring it up, but so far it's been really good!

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  12. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Wow! This would've lost me at the wing roots, thank the stars you're doing this first! Thanks for the tips!
  13. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Now I'm on pins and needles! I'm pleased to see this going so well. You are doing an excellent job.

    One note I thought that I designed notches into the parts that you had circled in post #49:oops: . Oh well, I'll make sure they are there for the next editions (#74 is underway again).
  14. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Will, were any of these aircraft operational, or were they just production prototypes?
  15. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    From the sources that I have found there was only a grand total of 29 Super Corsairs produced only 10 of which were production versions and none made it to operational squadrons. They were fairly far along in the Navy's test program at the Naval Air test Center but that's as far as they got. The combination of the end of the war and the introduction of Grummans Bearcat caused the Government to cut the contract with only the 10 production versions built of the 418 ordered, the other 19 were converted FG-1 airframes I think. It's interesting to note that the official performance figures don't show the Super Corsair as being all that fast, the F4U-4 was supposedly faster but the Super Corsair had a 4400 ft min climb rate! As compared with the FG-1D's 3120 ft min. It was able to outclimb the F-80 and the F-84. Probably the reason they figured so well in the postwar racing years and the Bearcat is not even mentioned is that the Bearcat was still in service at the time and Cleland knew it would be easier to talk the Navy out of a plane they had decided they didn't want.
  16. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    I had a look at the post restoration pics Will sent me (should have done that BEFORE building this section - doh!) and see that the pieces in the pic a few posts back should be squared off their whole length. I formed mine rounded. So you'd need to score those a little. Same goes for the ones on the bottom. Oh well...

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  17. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Maybe with some good plier work you should be able to re-shape them to be square........... :roll:
  18. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Heh - more likely I'd make a mess of things. I think I might leave them be, or at least wait until I come back to the front and then rip them off and redo them. Nice thing about 'lectronic kits: unlimited redo.

  19. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Yeah that's why I like downloadable kits............ I NEED unlimited redo!:grin:

    Hemostats might work to re-shape the part............ heck worth a try if it didn't work you still have the unlimited-redo thing!

    john
  20. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

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    Beginning the Tail

    Well, this is the pathetic sum total of my output for the night. Tail wheel & bracket.

    The bracket is kinda involved, lots of small sections to cut and then 3 layers laminated while trying to line up the cutouts! I'm pretty sure Will did not intend for all those circular lightening holes to be cut out, but I thought it'd look spiffy with them cut out, plus I just received the Japanese screw punch I ordered based on cmdrted's recommendation and I was anxious to give it a whirl. Boy that thing is DA BOMB! Super clean cuts - it's discussed here: http://www.cardmodels.net/forum/showpost.php?p=65753&postcount=33

    Also, I'd recommend small bits of wire to form the circular sections at either end of the hydraulic cylinder.

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