Ballasting
- Thread starter Starman
- Start date
like gary said...GOOGLE!.thats where i found this site :mrgreen: ! so i know it does wonders :thumb:.--josh
This isn't a tutorial, but it's the method that I use for applying ballast.
Before you start to ballast your track, first paint the
sides of the rail. I use Polly Scale water-based paints,
usually brown, applied with a fairly stiff paintbrush.
After I've done about 10' or 12' of track, I go back and rub
the paint off the top of the rail with a rag wrapped around
my fingertip. (The paint is dry to the touch, but not yet
hardened, so it comes off easily). Allow the paint a couple
of days to fully cure before going on to ballasting.
When ballasting track, I try to apply all of the scenic
materials before doing any wetting or glueing: in other
words, rip-rap, sub-ballast or fill, cinders, and finally
ballast. I often do a little bit of the ground cover along
the right of way at the same time, too. If the slope of the
trackside terrain or the sub-roadbed is too steep, use a
cheap brush to paint on full strength white glue, before
applying the ground cover, ballast etc.: this will help
hold it in place. I use a paper cup to spread the material
along the track, then, with a 3/4" or 1" soft brush, spread
the material to the contour that I want. Use very little
ballast around the moving parts of any turnouts. I usually
use a brush to apply grimy black paint between the ties of
turnouts before ballasting, as these areas usually get pretty
greasy, and it helps to hide bare spots where the ballast is
thinner. I also apply a little plastic compatible oil on the tops of
all of the ties where the switch points move, to prevent the
glue from sticking everything together. Once you have the
contours that you want, take the 3/4" soft brush, lightly
grasping it by the metal ferrule, and lay the handle across
the tops of the rails. Then as you move along the track,
use the fingers of your other hand to lightly and rapidly
tap the handle. This will cause all of the excess ballast
that's laying on the tie tops to be bounced off and into the
spaces between the ties. This is much more effective than
trying to remove each bit of stray ballast with a brush.
For wetting the ballast before applying glue, I use a large
sprayer bottle, filled with tap water and a few drops of
liquid dish detergent. This is cheaper than alcohol, and
just as effective. Aim the first few spritzes upward and
let the droplets fall onto the ballast: this helps to avoid
having the force of the water blow scenic materials all over
the place. Once everything has been dampened a bit, you can
spray directly at the area. Wet it thoroughly, and remember
that the thicker the layer of ballast, the more water is
required. The scenic material must be wet right through, in
order for the glue mixture to penetrate.
I have used matte medium in the past, and while it works
well, it's too expensive for this simple task. White glue
works just as well and around here, I can buy a gallon jug
of it for about the same price as 8 ounces of matte medium.
I use a 10 ounce plastic bottle to mix the white glue with a
similar amount of hot tap water, as this seems to mix a
little faster. Once the glue and water are thoroughly
mixed, I pour some into a small plastic applicator bottle,
the top of which allows me to dribble a fairly controlled
amount of the mixture along the track. I usually go down
the centre of the track then work back along one side, then
back down the other. Pay attention to where you are if you
have to stop to refill the applicator bottle, as the glue
mixture will soak in almost instantly: if it doesn't, you
haven't used enough "wet" water. Do not touch the ballast
at any time while applying the glue, as it's very difficult
to tidy it up when it's wet. When applying glue around
turnouts, try to place it only between the ties, and don't
overdo it. Anywhere else, don't be shy with it: if you get
it on the tie tops, it will dry clear and flat. Try to not
get any on the rail tops. If you had areas where you first
applied full-strength white glue to keep the material from
rolling away, the glue/water mixture will help it all bond
together. When you have applied the glue mixture to
everything, put away your tools and materials, then leave the
layout room for a couple of days, or longer, if the applied
materials are particularily deep. Don't poke at or disturb
things while they're drying. And don't be alarmed by what
you see after you've finished applying the glue: I had
several areas where there were puddles of glue gathered at
the bottom of slopes. Simply sprinkle a little ground foam,
or ballast over it and leave it.
When the glue is finally dry, gently try moving your
turnouts: you may have to free sticking areas with a little
finger pressure, until everything works smoothly. It's
unlikely that you'll have any glue on the tops of the rails,
unless you were careless with the applicator. Nevertheless,
rub the railtops with whatever you normally use for track
cleaning. I have a small pad meant for cleaning electrical
contacts that was given to me by a friend. Many modellers
swear by the BriteBoy, available at hobby shops. Generally,
the only time that I have to clean track is after ballasting
or doing scenery near the track.
I hope this information will be of some help to you with
your ballasting. If you have any more questions, please
feel free to ask.
Here's an example of the finished work:
Wayne
Before you start to ballast your track, first paint the
sides of the rail. I use Polly Scale water-based paints,
usually brown, applied with a fairly stiff paintbrush.
After I've done about 10' or 12' of track, I go back and rub
the paint off the top of the rail with a rag wrapped around
my fingertip. (The paint is dry to the touch, but not yet
hardened, so it comes off easily). Allow the paint a couple
of days to fully cure before going on to ballasting.
When ballasting track, I try to apply all of the scenic
materials before doing any wetting or glueing: in other
words, rip-rap, sub-ballast or fill, cinders, and finally
ballast. I often do a little bit of the ground cover along
the right of way at the same time, too. If the slope of the
trackside terrain or the sub-roadbed is too steep, use a
cheap brush to paint on full strength white glue, before
applying the ground cover, ballast etc.: this will help
hold it in place. I use a paper cup to spread the material
along the track, then, with a 3/4" or 1" soft brush, spread
the material to the contour that I want. Use very little
ballast around the moving parts of any turnouts. I usually
use a brush to apply grimy black paint between the ties of
turnouts before ballasting, as these areas usually get pretty
greasy, and it helps to hide bare spots where the ballast is
thinner. I also apply a little plastic compatible oil on the tops of
all of the ties where the switch points move, to prevent the
glue from sticking everything together. Once you have the
contours that you want, take the 3/4" soft brush, lightly
grasping it by the metal ferrule, and lay the handle across
the tops of the rails. Then as you move along the track,
use the fingers of your other hand to lightly and rapidly
tap the handle. This will cause all of the excess ballast
that's laying on the tie tops to be bounced off and into the
spaces between the ties. This is much more effective than
trying to remove each bit of stray ballast with a brush.
For wetting the ballast before applying glue, I use a large
sprayer bottle, filled with tap water and a few drops of
liquid dish detergent. This is cheaper than alcohol, and
just as effective. Aim the first few spritzes upward and
let the droplets fall onto the ballast: this helps to avoid
having the force of the water blow scenic materials all over
the place. Once everything has been dampened a bit, you can
spray directly at the area. Wet it thoroughly, and remember
that the thicker the layer of ballast, the more water is
required. The scenic material must be wet right through, in
order for the glue mixture to penetrate.
I have used matte medium in the past, and while it works
well, it's too expensive for this simple task. White glue
works just as well and around here, I can buy a gallon jug
of it for about the same price as 8 ounces of matte medium.
I use a 10 ounce plastic bottle to mix the white glue with a
similar amount of hot tap water, as this seems to mix a
little faster. Once the glue and water are thoroughly
mixed, I pour some into a small plastic applicator bottle,
the top of which allows me to dribble a fairly controlled
amount of the mixture along the track. I usually go down
the centre of the track then work back along one side, then
back down the other. Pay attention to where you are if you
have to stop to refill the applicator bottle, as the glue
mixture will soak in almost instantly: if it doesn't, you
haven't used enough "wet" water. Do not touch the ballast
at any time while applying the glue, as it's very difficult
to tidy it up when it's wet. When applying glue around
turnouts, try to place it only between the ties, and don't
overdo it. Anywhere else, don't be shy with it: if you get
it on the tie tops, it will dry clear and flat. Try to not
get any on the rail tops. If you had areas where you first
applied full-strength white glue to keep the material from
rolling away, the glue/water mixture will help it all bond
together. When you have applied the glue mixture to
everything, put away your tools and materials, then leave the
layout room for a couple of days, or longer, if the applied
materials are particularily deep. Don't poke at or disturb
things while they're drying. And don't be alarmed by what
you see after you've finished applying the glue: I had
several areas where there were puddles of glue gathered at
the bottom of slopes. Simply sprinkle a little ground foam,
or ballast over it and leave it.
When the glue is finally dry, gently try moving your
turnouts: you may have to free sticking areas with a little
finger pressure, until everything works smoothly. It's
unlikely that you'll have any glue on the tops of the rails,
unless you were careless with the applicator. Nevertheless,
rub the railtops with whatever you normally use for track
cleaning. I have a small pad meant for cleaning electrical
contacts that was given to me by a friend. Many modellers
swear by the BriteBoy, available at hobby shops. Generally,
the only time that I have to clean track is after ballasting
or doing scenery near the track.
I hope this information will be of some help to you with
your ballasting. If you have any more questions, please
feel free to ask.
Here's an example of the finished work:
Wayne
Scroll down to the bottom of this page. The "new & improved" Gauge (now featuring Zealot functionality... 
) has a fantastic feature that searches out similar threads and displays 5 likely links for your perusal.
Good luck!
Andrew
) has a fantastic feature that searches out similar threads and displays 5 likely links for your perusal.Good luck!
Andrew
I ballast just as Doc Wayne does, with one exception, I paint my rail after ballasting. This due mainly to the fact I handlaid for years, it was so easy to ballast prior to laying rail I got in the habit of painting afterwards. Look at much prototype trackage (not all, I know) and you will seee the rust/grime has been washed by rain onto the ballast and ties. There will often be a fairly straight line of rust color running on the ballast right next to the rail, only an inch or two wide.
Oh, I also put some india ink or just black paint in my wetting solution, it weathers the ballast, just don't overdue it.
Andrew, thanks for pointing out that feature, it's cool!
Oh, I also put some india ink or just black paint in my wetting solution, it weathers the ballast, just don't overdue it.
Andrew, thanks for pointing out that feature, it's cool!
if you want your turnouts to look more ballasted than they really are,go to home depot,Lowe's,etc and buy a can of "stone creations" spray paint that matches your ballast.this stuff sprays particles real rough and looks like ballast and fills in the turnouts and anywhere you need the look of "deeper" ballast and doesnt interfere with points.i spray my whole cork roadbed with the stuff to hide any spots that may flake off or pop out in the future--josh
I completely agree with the painters. Paint the rail either before or afterwards...just be sure to paint it!
EDIT: I like Floquil's rail brown for mainlines...although I'm probably going to find...or mix...a rust for sidings.
EDIT: I like Floquil's rail brown for mainlines...although I'm probably going to find...or mix...a rust for sidings.
