Athearn SD40-2 [ jerky ]

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by Tommybza, Jun 15, 2007.

  1. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

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    My point is: Selecting a radius larger than any of your equipment needs means that you can fit less layout in your space.
  2. sfrr

    sfrr Member

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    Great you got a new hobby supplier =) (spelling =/)


    Ahhh, well yes, but then again I can always make awitching on the inside, and maybe a 3 track mainline around the table
  3. Tommybza

    Tommybza Member

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    Back to the missing gear subject , I got 6 replaced the missing one and the other one that looked chewed up a littel . put it back in and it runs great . so I have a systen that is fine for now here is the picture of the box shy the gear .I do not think any one swaped out any parts .they just forgot to put in in .could have been produced on a monday friday .payday or even after lunch Do they still have liquid lunch breaks or are they Disco nap's
    Tommy

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  4. sfrr

    sfrr Member

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    Great to know it runs now =)

    can you get a video by any chance? :mrgreen:
  5. brakie

    brakie Active Member

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    Interesting..Glad you got it running..

    BTW..The reason I feel that engine was tampered with before you bought it is because I seen it before when I was working part time in a hobby shop.
  6. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

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    Was this SD40 one of the latest release that are DCC ready or an older one (possibly 10 years) that has been sitting on the dealers shelf?
  7. sfrr

    sfrr Member

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    From the way the chassis looks, it looks to be an older model
  8. Tommybza

    Tommybza Member

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    I did look closely at the box and it seemed to be new .the corners were in good condition and the foam that held it into place was fine.the box it was sold in is blue with a picture on it ,and the hoby store is new in the last year ,nothing looks to be older than a year old . now when and who he got his stock from I have no Idea .it could be a pre DDC ?
    I do not notice any DDC hook ups,
    now to add to the mix here I think i could be under powered .this is what i have so far .
    less than one mile of track in 1/87 then 12 switches 6 blocks
    A tech 4 mrc 280
    1 controller
    2 selectors
    athearn SD-40-2
    atlas classic Rs-3
    walthers trainline gp-9m
    I notice a twitch in the locos when i want to change tracks
    it seems like a lot for a 59 dollar power unit ?
    thanks .
  9. sfrr

    sfrr Member

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    Can you get a picture of the locos?
  10. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

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    If you get a twitch in the "locos" when you change tracks, the problem is most likely with the track and not the locos. One loco having a problem, but not the other might be the loco problem, but both having a problem in the same place is probably a track problem. You didn't mention what kind of switches you were using for those #4's. I'm going to guess that you have Atlas Snap Switches.
  11. Tommybza

    Tommybza Member

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    yes that is what they are .
    grunt suggestions ? welcome
    I really would like to get this going as smooth as can be. in the fall i want to lay foam foam and start the real fun
    please advise.
    Tommy
  12. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

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    Atlas Snap Switches are better than Tyco or other toy switches because they are made of nickle-silver instead of steel. On the other hand, if you inspect them closely, the design is identicle to the toy units. The guard rails are too wide. The switch relies entirely on contact between the points and the closure rail for electrical pick up. The smallest piece of dirt or corrosion between the point and the closure rails renders the switch dead until you get the locomotive past the frog. Atlas Custom Line has a metal frog that can be wired up to be live allowing the locomotive to only have to deal with dead points. Most locomotives will bridge the dead points and pick up power from the frog before they stall. The Custom Line still has the sheet metal points that tend to lay over with the weight of a locomotive and drop the locomotives into the gravel. The best switches are Micro-Engineeringor and B-K ,but M-E does not make anything smaller than a #6 switch, and B-K is so busy making O scale switch kits that he seldom has time for ho. The other choices are Walthers/Shinohara (code 83 Shinohara is marketed in this country as Walthers, code 100 is sold as Shinohara.) The Shinohara are pretty good. They have a brass slider bar under the points to give the points a second place to pick up power from. Unfortunately they are also a bit "fiddly" and the brass bar is sometimes hard to get to make a good contact. Probably the best choice is Peco, which has a spring to make the points make a good connection in whichever direction they go. Peco does not offer their switches identified by number however. They offer "shorts", "mediums", and "longs." The shorts are probably similar to #4s, mediums are probably similar to #6s, and longs are probably close to a #8, but if you lay them on top of actual 4s, 6s, and 8s there are differences.
  13. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

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    That's because Pecos are continuous radius, like Atlas Snap-Switches (which aren't real #4s either).