Anybody know where I can get a model of this?
- Thread starter CNWman
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Rivarossi made a model of the steamlined NYC Hudson a few years ago. They also used the same locomotive with a different boiler front to model the Santa Fe "Blue Goose." I don't know if they ever made the CNW version or not. Since Rivarossi has been in and out of bk a couple of times recently, I don't know if they have any product on the market right now.
There's an "O" gauge version,but I couldn't find an HO version.
here's another nice picture of it though,along with another nice steamlined engine...
http://www.cnwhs.org/memberphotos/displayimage.php?album=topn&cat=0&pos=1
Chris
here's another nice picture of it though,along with another nice steamlined engine...
http://www.cnwhs.org/memberphotos/displayimage.php?album=topn&cat=0&pos=1
Chris
It has been issued in the past as a brass model (about 100-250 units), you'll be parting with some serious coin to get one as they are at least 25+ years old. Maybe one has been reissued recently but still you're talking long green as they make even fewer now than they did then(usually 50 or less of each version and almost always painted). Your best bet would be a brass broker like Howard Zane, Caboose Hobbies in Denver or Mitchell's in Delaware.
I saw one similar and posted the price and picture in this thread, prepare for a shock!
http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=24240&highlight=christie's
http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=24240&highlight=christie's
"The Cornelius Vanderbuilt" IS the name given to the Upside-down bathtub NYC unit pictured in the photograph, and the shrouding at closer inspection looks nothing like the 400's shrouding.
The shovel-nosedE-6 is completely unique in everyway. You COULD spend alot of time scratchbuilding one off an IHC chassic, but it wouldn't look anywhere near as nice as the brass loco, unless you had amazing brass-welding skills.
The shovel-nosedE-6 is completely unique in everyway. You COULD spend alot of time scratchbuilding one off an IHC chassic, but it wouldn't look anywhere near as nice as the brass loco, unless you had amazing brass-welding skills.
MilesWestern said:"The Cornelius Vanderbuilt" IS the name given to the Upside-down bathtub NYC unit pictured in the photograph, and the shrouding at closer inspection looks nothing like the 400's shrouding.
The shovel-nosedE-6 is completely unique in everyway. You COULD spend alot of time scratchbuilding one off an IHC chassic, but it wouldn't look anywhere near as nice as the brass loco, unless you had amazing brass-welding skills.
Well, for starters, Wikipedia says that these locomotives never were used for their origional purpose. They were ordered to be new headings for the 400 routes, but then the E7's came along. Then the E-4's were assigned to frieght trains. I froget the rest, but I know that they didn't last long, which is a pitty.
It would have gone great on my layout (alika so: an E-4 loco was recently found in the middle of nowhere in horible condition. Treated like the F3A, it now runs daliy passinger trains to and from Riverside Junction station) but then I would need DCC and then to upgrade the F3A to a DCC compatable state (which it's not curently, like I said, it's a proto 1000 loco), and then completley re-wire the track, so it's not hapening soon. That, and I have no passenger cars alsoops: And finaly, I have never scratchbuilt or modified ANYTHING save weathering my buildingsAHHHHHHHHHHH Wikipedia! Try to stay away from wikipedia as things can easily be edited. Meaning that it is not a reliable source, SO these trains may have been used for their origonal purpose (or maybe they really wern't, like wiki said, I have no clue whether they weren't or were, I stay away from steam). Back to railroading though. A few things, be careful with large steam units on your layout. As it is a 4x8 (I think that is what you said), the locos might not make the curves correctly, so be careful when looking into steam to make sure the locomotives will run correctly on your layout . Scratchbuilding and modifying if both fun and rather simple, it just takes time and lots of patience!
. Scratchbuilding and modifying if both fun and rather simple, it just takes time and lots of patience! 
Chrisdapos said:AHHHHHHHHHHH Wikipedia! Try to stay away from wikipedia as things can easily be edited. Meaning that it is not a reliable source, SO these trains may have been used for their origonal purpose (or maybe they really wern't, like wiki said, I have no clue whether they weren't or were, I stay away from steam). Back to railroading though. A few things, be careful with large steam units on your layout. As it is a 4x8 (I think that is what you said), the locos might not make the curves correctly, so be careful when looking into steam to make sure the locomotives will run correctly on your layout
I've bolded the parts that are corect. Indeed, if you look at my intro thread, you will learn about my layout. As for curves, I wouldn't wory about that, my curves are pretty moderate in my opinion. I would use it for shortline passenger service to even out some ends on the layout.
I don't think a 4-6-4 would have problems with even an 18 inch radius. With a set of shorty passenger cars, it should work fine. If Rivarossi released a Milwaukee Road Hiawatha Hudson, it might be as close as you are going to find for your CNW locomotive. If it is close enough to repaint it for the CNW, you might check E-bay or a trainshow or swap meet for a used one. The old Rivarossi's had a poor motor design which means you may find a nonrunning used one cheap. Northwest Shortline makes can motor conversion drives for all of the old style Rivarossi steam engines I think.
I have an old Rivarossi Blue Goose that the motor went out on. I was going to try to repower it, but decided to leave it as a dummy. What I'm going to do with my Blue Goose is what you might consider doing if the steamer doesn't fit in with your era of operations for the rest of your layout and you find a suitable locomotive. On my Santa Fe, the Blue Goose was not scrapped. It survived and was later restored to operation like the 3751, and will be used for railfan trips. Furthermore, I was working on some Express Trak reefers at Redondo Jct. a few years ago when Amtrak was putting together a special train to be pulled by the 4-8-4 #3751 and two of Amtrak's latest G.E. locos. The train was made up entirely of "private varnish." I've bought any passenger car in any color that appeals to me in any vintage after 1900. I picked up a couple of the left over Athearn NMRA special locomotives from the Palm Beach convention that they were selling for $10.00 each at a train show in So Cal following the convention. The Athearns will push the blue Goose in front of as much "private varnish" as I can put behind it at one of our modular set ups. You could use a Hudson in front of a couple of p2k CNW E-units and either a bunch of CNW business cars or private varnish to make a nice fan excursion train if you can find a suitable locomotive.
I have an old Rivarossi Blue Goose that the motor went out on. I was going to try to repower it, but decided to leave it as a dummy. What I'm going to do with my Blue Goose is what you might consider doing if the steamer doesn't fit in with your era of operations for the rest of your layout and you find a suitable locomotive. On my Santa Fe, the Blue Goose was not scrapped. It survived and was later restored to operation like the 3751, and will be used for railfan trips. Furthermore, I was working on some Express Trak reefers at Redondo Jct. a few years ago when Amtrak was putting together a special train to be pulled by the 4-8-4 #3751 and two of Amtrak's latest G.E. locos. The train was made up entirely of "private varnish." I've bought any passenger car in any color that appeals to me in any vintage after 1900. I picked up a couple of the left over Athearn NMRA special locomotives from the Palm Beach convention that they were selling for $10.00 each at a train show in So Cal following the convention. The Athearns will push the blue Goose in front of as much "private varnish" as I can put behind it at one of our modular set ups. You could use a Hudson in front of a couple of p2k CNW E-units and either a bunch of CNW business cars or private varnish to make a nice fan excursion train if you can find a suitable locomotive.
Russ Bellinis said:
If I ever do get one, I will most likley try to paint it, or if i'm woried that I might harm it too much, i'll just send it to those guys that do painting for you on this thread. I'll have to keep this in mind, though, so thanks. The train would be pulling maybe just two cars (passenger and rear) and do shortline service whil my F3A does the hard pulling jobs. and if I can get my hands on a shunter in another thread I posted in this area of the forum, well, let's just say i'd have a switcher that would be 1 of 4 certain types of loco in a certain series and be able to finaly have a little fun with one of my favorite engines of all time
Haha....the part about wikipedia is true too, you seemed to forget bolding that part . So your curves are 18 degree radius?, Im pretty sure you cant fit 22 degree curves on a 4x8, in which case you can't run large steam and deasel locos without some minor issues. So, if you have 22 degree curves you are safe, 18 degree you have to watch out when looking into steam locos.
. So your curves are 18 degree radius?, Im pretty sure you cant fit 22 degree curves on a 4x8, in which case you can't run large steam and deasel locos without some minor issues. So, if you have 22 degree curves you are safe, 18 degree you have to watch out when looking into steam locos.The layout I "borrowed" for our Island of SOdor uses 22" as well as 18",it has been created and is used on a 4x8. BUt its only the outer curves. They apparently can be used, but since they'll be closer to the edge, I would guess its need protection against falling if it derails. But HEY, what the heck do I know??? LOL
Yeah, 22" can be used on a 4x8 when combined with 18", I understand the problem to be with the 18. Longer locomomotives cannot make these 18" curves. I dont know though, Ive never tried to run a long steam loco on my 18"'s
I think it only makes sense that the longer locos wouldnt make that. I guess one has to decide larger curves (meaning larger layoutt?) and larger locos? Or smaller curves and stuff that will handle it. So far nothing I have nor havemy eye on will have an issue with our curves. shew!!!!!!
Chrisdapos said:
2-8-2 Mikes and smaller will handle 18 inch radius in ho. I think 4-6-4 passenger engines and smaller will also work fine on 18 inch radius. The six axle modern diesels will probably need 22 inch because they are so long with a lot of overhang. Smaller 6 axle power like Sd40-2 and smaller will work on 18 inch but look funny doing it.
I own a BLI HO-scale New York Central J1e Hudson 4-6-4 with DCC and sound, and I can confirm that particular 4-6-4 configuration works fine on 18"-radius track.
I bought it specifically for that reason, so I can bring it over to my little nephew's house and run it on his Thomas the Tank Engine train set tracks.
I wonder how hard would it be to scratchbuild a streamlined cowling to cover a Hudson like the BLI model... Nah. I like my Hudson the way it is.
I bought it specifically for that reason, so I can bring it over to my little nephew's house and run it on his Thomas the Tank Engine train set tracks.
I wonder how hard would it be to scratchbuild a streamlined cowling to cover a Hudson like the BLI model... Nah. I like my Hudson the way it is.