Airwolf Build #2 For Beginers

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Slorvex, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    I have had requests to start this Build Thread. Many have tackled this project, and has failed miserably.

    I have attempted to build this model twice. First time I messed up the frame, due to the instructions. Second time I got to glue happy and the wrapping of B1(fusalage) was messed up and I jumped a step and also folded down the tab of A2, as the photos below will show, my mistakes.

    I am going to treat this Thread as a beginer's guide, as well as a beginers guide to paper modeling. The required skill lvl is a 6 out of 10. But as I Stated before, This is a complex build , but I will not give up due to the fact I love Airwolf, and Have First season on DVD. :)

    Ok On to the build and progress I have attempted and failed at.

    Will start with the materials I to construct this and will continualy use through out the build.

    Paper I use

    [​IMG]

    Glue I use

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    Second attempt Screw ups

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Please bare in mind that I have never done paper models before. Yes I am for real doing a hard build first. I love a challenge. :)

    Starting the new build
    [​IMG]
    I use a clear clip board to cut out the peices I need to build.

    Picture dosen't do the high gloss finish this paper has any justice. Absolutly stunning artwork done on this model.
    [​IMG]


    Thats all I have so far. Will the designer will be joining us in this build after he finishes his Super Corsair build, which I have viewed and it looks awsome.

    I have taking the liberty to attatch the model kit to Download, in case anyone wants to tackle this or has misplaced their file for easy of use.

    I realize my picture taking is not that great due to I never have used one. Sorry for the junk Photos Hopefully I will be able to build this model, and Improve my photo taking skills as well. Let me know what you think or how I can make this build easier for any of you. I am here to help as well as learn.

    Attached Files:

  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Thanks man! looking familiar :) giving me the itch to try it out again. too many models too little time...
    Chris

    p.s. got a macro mode on the camera? - looks like your pics are too close for regular mode.
  3. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    Okay here is my first tip from what I can see, glue the nose together first then put the windshield in before you try installing the frame. Also your frame looks a little flimsy like the backing isn't thick enough.
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Whats that pic in the background of the glue ;) Are your formers just a single ply of 110 lb cardstock?
    Chris
  5. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    Formers? not sure what that means.... Formers as in A10, A2 etc? and sorry that was my monitor in back ground. I use my computer desk for everything lol. I use only 1 sheet as in cut 1 peice out glue it togheter. Yes I realize frame looked flimsy but with all the glue i put on it it feels like it's a tank lol. I am currently working on B1 as in just cut it out to Do the nose peice and windsheild, since that was the mistake I realized after I did it, the first time. All the pics you see up above where mistakes the one's on clip board I am currently cutting out and redoing, and I know I will need help when making the frame as in how to construct a body around the frame? I used 1/4" strips and went horizontal from A2 -A11 was that a mistake? Sorry not used to terms as in what things are called, First timmer here :)
  6. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    As noted in the instructions pages 1 and 7 need to be laminated on posterboard (or some form of thick fibrous mat). By formers I mean the whole frame.
  7. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    So will two peices of card stock work as in glueing the two peices together?
  8. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    I would highly doubt it.
  9. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    How about a card board box? all I got lol
  10. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

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    That ought to work. I'm guessing you mean cereal?
  11. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    Ill go out tomorrow and grab some posterboard.
  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    if you are laminating 110lb cardstock I think 4 layers plus your printed sheet should be about right right for the frame (formers). I used my calipers and checked - I have the same brand of 110 lb that I use for that purpose. I tried just like you and used one piece of cardstock for the formers thinking it seemed plenty strong. By the time I got the tail on there it was pretty out of wack.

    If you only have your tube of glue dont even try to laminate together like that - you will want a spray adhesive like super 77 or something similar. I think had I done the frame up right I would have had much better luck throughout the project
    Chris

    *edit* forgot to mention the actual measurment came out to 1 mm
  13. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    Thank you for the info cgut, thats what I am looking for simple terms lol
  14. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

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    I have another question. Yeasterday I didn't do anything to the model, due to I didn;t go out and get posterboard, but hopefully will get out to day to do it. So my question is. I constructed the nose peice the other night, and I was amazed of how well it came out, for the first time idid it. But I am having trouble with the oozing of glue. I have looked at two models done with Airwolf, One of the previous beta builders and also the ddesigner Will pictures, and all seem to have smooth lines and hardly no glue visiable.

    When I try to apply a tiny amount as in barley on the paper I wait 45 min and then touch it and it comes un glued. When i put the usual amount it gets all over my fingers. Now I realize probably the nose is one on the hardest peices to glue with all the seems in it. I think I read some where some use toothpicks to apply glue. Also some use tweezers to hold the peices together.

    So what is the best way to apply glue and hold the peices together?
  15. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Dont feel alone with that problem. I had as much glue on the outside of the nose as I did on the inside when I was done with that part. The shape ended up really nice but I feel I missed how it should have been assembled.
    Chris
  16. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    slorvex................. go to Wal-Mart pick up Aleene's Tacky Glue in the SILVER bottle. This is the best stuff for gluing paper quickly and with very little glue. Bottle cost less than 2 bucks.

    It's sets up fast so you have to be quick about lining up the parts, but it does work.

    Also........... rob the pantry for almost empty cereal boxes, you can laminate two pieces of this together and it works great for the formers.........heck 1 sheet works pretty good. Glue your paper to the printed side and it doesn't warp.

    Make sure you let it dry before cutting and assembling your inside frame.

    john

    Attached Files:

  17. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Silver bottle????? DANG I had no idea there was more than one kind - whats the difference with the gold bottle. Google here I come....
    Chris
  18. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    here is the skinny on the silver glue from Michael's

    http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=gc0041

    I love it!
    quote

    DIRECTIONS FOR USING ALEENE'S THICK DESIGNER TACKY GLUE:

    Apply Quick Dry Tacky glue to both surfaces to be glued.
    Allow the glue to set up on each piece for a few minutes before putting the pieces together.
    By letting the glue set up your pieces will hold in place much faster without slipping.
    SPECIAL TIPS: Aleene’s Quick Dry Tacky Glue has been specially formulated to dry and tack up significantly faster than average craft glues. It cuts the time associated with drying by more than 50 percent. Not intended for washable wearables.




    TEMPERATURE RECOMMENDATIONS/LIMITATIONS: Best when used at room temperature.



    CURE RATE & DRYING TIME: 35 minutes




    CLEAN UP & REMOVAL RECOMMENDATIONS: Soap and water.


    CAUTION ADVISORIES OR SAFETY RECOMMENDATIONS: Non-toxic, safe for kids.
  19. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    hey! you edited that after I posted :p
    I will give the quick dry a try after I finish by gold bottle (in about 5 years) or if I dont like it I suppose. Thanks for the info, you may return to your regularly scheduled programming!
    Chris
  20. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

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    Chris................

    Try it before............ you are going to wish you had if you do not. This stuff works!

    Since I build alot of beta builds...........my re-colors, and attenpts at designing, I really can not wait for glue to dry. This stuff solved my problems because it dries fast........ hold parts together, count to 10!

    Waaalla!........... as Ottis said in Superman.

    john