Adding "line" detail to locos

RobertInOntario

Active Member
Does anyone know if there is an effective and convenient way to add lines (or bands) onto loco bodies? I'm thinking that these could be done by either using paint or decals -- but it sounds like it could be a very difficult project and not be worth doing.

The reason I ask is that I have a loco -- a Triang British B12 in British Railways black livery. I'm thinking of spray painting it apple green and converting it into its LNER livery but creating the line detail might be too difficult.

A lot of the British locos had coloured bands or stripes. If you go to this website (http://www.mandgn.co.uk/GalleryB12.html) and scroll down half way or so, there are pics of the real B12 both showing it in its BR Black AND in its green livery (they call it Apple Green).

Just curious if anyone has any suggestions or advice.

Thanks,
Rob
 

ukon30fan

0n30 Rail Baron of Leeds
I have a set of 'Gel' pens which have silver and gold among their colours.
Both are admirable for applying banding to locos.
One word of warning - the colour will smear or rub off if handled - I've yet to find a setting solution that won't add to the problem.
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
You can purchase striping as decals (Champ and perhaps Microscale) or dry transfers (C-D-S), but you may find the choice of colours limited to white, black, red, or gold/yellow. These are available in several widths, but are only straight lines. There are some sets available for specific railroads or locos that may contain the colours or curves/shapes that you need. Don't overlook diesel lettering sets as a source of striping/lining, especially cab unit sets, for the early, and usually, most complicated paint and lettering schemes.
This loco was striped using dry transfers from C-D-S:
2007-01-10203.jpg


This loco used decal striping from a set for a CPR steamer, and the same style striping is also available from C-D-S, as dry transfers. The decals are the easiest to use, as you can reposition them during installation. With dry transfers, you get one chance only.
2007-01-10488.jpg


You can also paint on the striping, but need to be proficient at making and applying masking and at applying the paint.
Not much skill involved in this one. The secret to keeping the spacing between the light (which was applied first) and dark is to cut the masking for the entire length of the striping, including the spaces that will be painted the darker colour. For this loco, I started with two pieces of masking tape, applied one atop the other, on a sheet of glass. Using a new blade and a straightedge, I removed both factory edges of the tape, using dividers to ensure that both ends of the remaining strip were the same height. I then used a square and ruler to trim the ends, making the strip the same length as that of the hood of the loco. Using dividers, the stripes were layed out and cut through the tape: the first piece, used only as a spacer to position the mask for the first white stripe, was the small wedge-shaped piece immediately behind the cab. Basically, the entire precut strip of masking tape was applied to the side of the hood, then the pieces that covered areas that were intended to end up black were removed, leaving evenly spaced stripes covering the white that I wished to retain. While these stripes are much wider than the type you need for your locos, the technique of using the masking tape to position the striping is an easy way to keep things straight, level, and properly spaced.
2007-01-10487.jpg


The striping (and also the lettering) on the cab and tender of the loco below used dry transfers as a "mask", applied over the cab and tender, which were first painted white. Masking tape, trimmed to size, was used as spacers to keep the lettering and stripes straight and parallel, and was removed as soon as the dry transfers were applied. It's important when using this method that you do not burnish the dry transfers as you would normally do if they were intended to remain in place. When everything was satisfactorily positioned, and the masking tape removed, the loco and tender were painted black. As soon as the paint was dry to the touch (only a few minutes, although I cleaned the airbrush before proceeding) I used bits of masking tape to "pick" at the areas where the dry transfers had been applied, removing the material, which exposed the white paint beneath.
2007-01-10016.jpg


I hope this will give you some ideas for applying striping/lining to your locos.

Wayne
 

RobertInOntario

Active Member
ukon30fan said:
I have a set of 'Gel' pens which have silver and gold among their colours.
Both are admirable for applying banding to locos.
One word of warning - the colour will smear or rub off if handled - I've yet to find a setting solution that won't add to the problem.

Thanks, David. Those pens sound really good then (thanks for the warning as well). Do you know where I could order them? I've ordered a few small parcels recently (from the UK), that I've received within a few days without hassles from customs. Cheers, Rob
 

RobertInOntario

Active Member
Thanks for your feedback and photos, Doctor Wayne. BTW, nice work! This is helpful and I'll have to weigh up which method will work best for my B12 loco. I still haven't decided 100% if I will do this, but if I did, it would fit in with my green LNER Flying Scotsman. Plus, the decals/emblems are already missing on one side of my black B12.

Did you see my recently kitbashed black 0-6-0 loco? It's at: http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=27985

Thanks again!

Rob
 

RobertInOntario

Active Member
ukon30fan said:
I have a set of 'Gel' pens which have silver and gold among their colours.
Both are admirable for applying banding to locos.
One word of warning - the colour will smear or rub off if handled - I've yet to find a setting solution that won't add to the problem.

I suddenly wondered how you make a steady, straight line with these -- wouldn't that be hard to do? Just curious! Thanks, Rob
 

60103

Pooh Bah
Robert: The old method was using cigarette paper, with black lines drawn onthe gummed bit. (Better buy the fag paper now; it'll be next banned after the incandescent lights.) The lines are then cut through with a razor blade to the required width. I think the B12 in green needs a black-white-black boiler band.
Alternately, I think you can order decal/transfer striping. Closest source is probably Model Railway Imports. They'd have a sheet with any fancy bits like corners or splashers.
 

RobertInOntario

Active Member
60103 said:
Robert: The old method was using cigarette paper, with black lines drawn onthe gummed bit. (Better buy the fag paper now; it'll be next banned after the incandescent lights.) The lines are then cut through with a razor blade to the required width. I think the B12 in green needs a black-white-black boiler band.
Alternately, I think you can order decal/transfer striping. Closest source is probably Model Railway Imports. They'd have a sheet with any fancy bits like corners or splashers.

Thanks, David. More good suggestions! Perhaps I'll contact Model Railway Imports, although I have successfully ordered and received several small items (traction tyres, decals) from UK suppliers without any customs hassles. I've found at least one full colour pic of the apple green B12; I think I'll chase down and study a few more before I go ahead with this. Rob
 

60103

Pooh Bah
Robert: I'll see if I have a reference for LNER locos; my big book is on the LMS.
There should be something in a magazine.
 

RobertInOntario

Active Member
60103 said:
Robert: I'll see if I have a reference for LNER locos; my big book is on the LMS.
There should be something in a magazine.

Thanks, David! I quickly googled a few pics tonight and it seems you're right, that it had white and black lines. My B12 looks good in BR black but it would fit in better with my LNER Flying Scotsman if it were in apple green, but I'm still not totally sure about changing it yet.

When I spray painted my E2/3F, I found that spray painting works extremely well and is fast and easy. So I kind of 'have wind in my sales' and was thinking, 'What else can I paint or improve?'! My B12 is also missing its BR numbers/emblem on one side, so there is a good reason to do something about it! For an old Triang, it runs very well.

Cheers, Rob
 

RobertInOntario

Active Member
B12 pic attached

ukon30fan said:
How about doing what we do? Go to Fox transfers and get some of his lining sheets - saves a load of hassle.
My recommendation of gel Pens was made in relation to the raised boiler bands on locos - not for loco lining.
https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/index2.html

Thanks again! I'll certainly consider that. Fox Transfers sounds good, especially if they already have appropriate LNER decals ready to go. I'd still need to add the bands on the boiler & I'm looking into what colour/type of bands I'd need for LNER livery.

BTW, here is a pic of my Triang B12. I DO like it in the black BR livery but I think it would look even better in LNER. Plus, as mentioned, it's missing its BR emblem/number on the other side of the cab. For an old Triang, it runs quite well.

Thanks again,
Rob

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RobertInOntario

Active Member
ukon30fan said:
You'll find that their lining sets will include the boiler bands.
Give them an email claifying what you want and they'll see you right!
Have you seen http://www.mandgn.co.uk/B12_1.html - nice shot of a B12 in LNER Apple green

Thanks, David. I actually have that very image as my computer's desktop at work! My theory is, the more I look at pics of this loco in Apple Green, the more its detail and colour scheme will stick in my mind!

I asked about the bands at hobby shop this evening and they suggested painting thin polystyrene strips and then glueing them onto the boiler. This sounds like a good idea but it's probably better to the website you mentioned, especially if they specialize in detail for the 4 groupings. I also need to find spray paint that's Apple Green.

Cheers, Rob
 
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