A Solution May Have Been Found

Quinn222

New Member
After reading all the excellent advice given to me and to others about how to proceed given the space that I have and the fact that we may have to move our layout at some point I think we may have come to a decision. Modules were suggested and while I really like the idea of them the amount of carpentry was daunting. It was suggested to others here as well that it's best to start small and get something finished.

Our first plan was to do one of the Woodland Scenics kits (4x8) and we may still do that. But now those Woodland Scenics modules are looking like an excellent idea. I discounted them because they are so expensive. But to build the 4x8 kit it would be nearly $1000 by the time we bought the kit, the track, the scenery etc. so now the modules aren't looking so expensive after all. I'd be able to go with the modules idea without having to deal with the hassle of carpentry to make them.

Anyone ever used them?

Christina
 

fsm1000

Member
I made up a couple of modules years ago. The criteria was that it be able to fit through a doorway standing up. I ended up making the 6 feet by 32 inches and no more then 2 feet for mountains. I also made the legs removable with casters on them as well. Just in case I would be able to roll it into my new place [never know where one will move to].
Anyhow, long and short of it is this. How strong are you and can you carry it? Also a doorway is [on average] 30 by 78 inches. So it has to fit through that AND around corners.

Modules work and remove the fear of losing all your hard earned work as well.

You can make a module ANY size you want to. A doorway is the max, but you can make them smaller as well. Just make a leg structure and then lay the layout on top of the legs. Both being seperate pieces.

I hope that helps. :)
 

Nazgul

Active Member
Hi Christina
I read your other thread about the space you have and what you would like to accomplish (some switching, continuous running, some elevation changes). You would require 4 modules just to run a circle (over $600.00). If you're itching to get started... How about using the existing bench work and buy some track components and layout a simple yard or even a length of track or tracks with some sidings....it will give you a chance to start and learn and experiment. It will also give you a chance to continue to bounce ideas around and let others here help. I just don't want to see you spend, potentially, a lot of money and expend a lot of effort on something you may not like down the road.
These are just my thoughts...but before I bought one or more of the WS modules, I would probably just build a diorama myself and continue to mull over what I really will be happy with.
Take care and good luck
 

Quinn222

New Member
fsm1000 said:
Anyhow, long and short of it is this. How strong are you and can you carry it? Also a doorway is [on average] 30 by 78 inches. So it has to fit through that AND around corners.

I hope that helps. :)

It does help and I'm lucky on a few counts. I'm average strangth for a woman who is in a high tech field (that should read: Not very strong but I can take you computer apart and put it back together again!) but I have twin teenaged nephews and a strong brother in law. I also have 7 and 9 foot wide doors. This being FL we have a lot of big doors that slide into the walls to open up the house.

I like your ideas about the bases, because carpentry is really something I wan't to avoid as much as I possibly can. In the past I've put banquet legs on 3/4" plywood.

Christina
 

Russ Bellinis

Active Member
If building a module or section is daunting to you, why not start with a hollow core door? Add some of the structural steel brackets from Home Depot or Lowes that can be used to mount legs to the door. Then some cheap 1 x 2 cross braces will keep everything in alignmment, and perhaps some castors on the bottom of the legs if you want to be able to roll the sections around.
 

fsm1000

Member
Heck for legs you can use anything including the folding kind you buy at home depot and attach with screws.

As for door size, it is great to say you have big ones where you are to get the layout OUT of your place but, how about the place you move IN to?
It may not have big doors. Just something to consider is all. :)
 

Quinn222

New Member
Russ Bellinis said:
If building a module or section is daunting to you, why not start with a hollow core door? Add some of the structural steel brackets from Home Depot or Lowes that can be used to mount legs to the door. Then some cheap 1 x 2 cross braces will keep everything in alignmment, and perhaps some castors on the bottom of the legs if you want to be able to roll the sections around.
That's a great idea! I never thought of doors, they're in my head as an n-scale thing but as modules they'd be great. And WS sells the brackets for joining modules together seperately and I might be able to use those to line up the sections.

I just priced a door blank and a sheet of foam and it came to way less than half the price of a module kit for a lot more square inches. Even taking into account the added cost for the other materials included in the kit I should still come out with way more for the money using doors.
 

Quinn222

New Member
fsm1000 said:
As for door size, it is great to say you have big ones where you are to get the layout OUT of your place but, how about the place you move IN to?
It may not have big doors. Just something to consider is all. :)

With any luck I will not be moving into a new place at all, though if I do and it's in FL the odds are in my favour. I've never seen a house here that didn't have at least one set of big sliders. My real concern is if I have to move it into this house in case of a hurricane.
 

sumpter250

multiscale modelbuilder
Using doors as a module base is a far better idea than just foam. Every time someone asks about the Woodland Scenic foam modules, I have to ask," look around, how many styrene foam structures do you see?" It's great insulation, and can be formed as a base for scenery, light, strong (well,as strong as what it is mounted on), but definitely not "structural material". If I were to use the Woodland Scenics modules, I'd build a solid support structure to attach them to.
 

rfmicro

New Member
Hi Christina,

There are all sorts of folding tables out there for just over a hundred bucks. Some are as long as 8' with adjustable legs (22" - 32"), 30" to 36" wide and with plywood tops.
http://www.hertzfurniture.com/mo_Plywood_Top_Rectangular_Folding_Table_in_Gray_Granite_4271.html
Now you can have your layout table in a day and then concern yourself how you will lay everything out which will be no small chore. One method would be to get yourself some of that butcher paper and tack it to your brand new folding table and begin to sketch out your layout. AS you are into destroying computers you could also get yourself one of those CAD like programs for Model RR and plan out your layout with that. XtrkCAD is one of maybe a dozen programs out there you could use.

Just some thoughts as there are a million ways to tackle this project,

Trent
 
Yes, the WS modules seem like a great idea...if you've got the dough and no planning skill whatsoever. It seems like you're getting alot of good advice here and here's another two cents.

I've heard it said that basic butt-joint benchwork is difficult because of all the measuring and the need for accurate cutting. But a modeling friend pointed out that many modelers can cut all kinds of materials accurately down to the thousandth of an inch with no problem...just a little practice. All this to say, don't be frightened off by benchwork. Beg or borrow whatever tools you may need (a great way to involve friends in your hobby) and find a good benchwork how-to book. Lumber is cheap, next to a brass loco or WS layout kits.

Galen
 

Russ Bellinis

Active Member
To add to the thopught of using doors, you can also get the folding legs like are used on folding tables at Home Depot or Lowes. Then you just bolt the folding legs to the tables. If the level is too low, you can add some pipe or aluminum electrical conduit pieces to the legs to lengthen them.
 
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