1/400 TOS Enterprise

[blake7]

SAUCER SECTION
This is Ron Caudillo's version re scaled, and new internal forms designed by Legal. I started with the saucer section first. I used a cardboard box for the big circle, and sprite box for the rest of the internal former. The cardboard box was too thick, so I modified it. It worked, but was a tight fit. A sprite box is not big enough with out splicing.

 

[blake7]

More pictures.

 

[blake7]

Saucer section is finished. Will post more when I build more.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

You are off to a really good start!

 

[blake7]

Thanks Rhaven Blaack. If I had stayed with sprite box instead of cardboard I wouldn't have had to fight to seal the top section. But it will not stop me from finishing this build.

 

[spaceagent-9]

I don't know what a sprite box is?
I have found on these really big models, that you want to use contact cement when gluing large flat areas to a support sheet. Just let it get tacky and no wet pools, then roll it onto the support sheet, it will stick immediately.

 

[blake7]

Reprinted top, side, and bottom. I am going to glue it over top of the original parts. spaceagent this is a sprite box. My wife only drinks sprite.

 

[blake7]

I use it for the formers for ninjatoe's MKII Viper. Just recycling my way.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

I also use what ever cardboard that I can get my hands on as well. I will even use cereal boxes if I have them.

 

[blake7]

It worked! Doesn't look too bad now. Dang, can't upload a picture. Thought it was fixed?

 

[blake7]

I should have cut out for the dorsal pylon on the lower section of the saucer when I was build the saucer section. The two rings has to be cut for the dorsal pylon to fit.

 

[spaceagent-9]

now I get it. I had to use really thin fishing line to hold up the nacelles after a few days, I would suggest bending a hobby metal plank in a V and sliding the struts over it, maybe even anchoring the bottom of the V so it doesn't tilt. another thing was the saucer rings sagged on each side, so I made an X crossing over the middle and glued it well. it still had some warble but it passed. a straight up post going from the base up thru behind the main sensor dish and up the neck to the impulse area would help greatly also. now I see what you mean by sprite, durhey I should have realized that !

 

[blake7]

Thanks spaceagent-9! I am going to see how Legal's new formers work.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

It worked! Doesn't look too bad now. Dang, can't upload a picture. Thought it was fixed?

I will let @zathros know.

 

[blake7]

Thanks Rhaven Blaack!

 

[blake7]

YES! The picture uploads are back! Thank you! Built the dorsal pylon, and made supports for the nacelle pylons. I started on the first half of the body.

 

[blake7]

Built the shuttle bay.

 

[zathros]

Make sure the next printer you get uses Pigmewnt ink, not Dye ink, then bleeding won't be a problem. You could lightly clear coat, then build up a few layers, that will protect the part. I would recommend using 1110 lb. Card stock for projects like this.

 

[blake7]

All my models I build are on 110lb cardstock. I bought the printer in 2010. I have to print one sheet at a time hand fed. She old, contrary, and a pain, but she keeps me building.

 

[spaceagent-9]

ok, those are wrong. first the gridded panels are supposed to face inside. Also the V is way wide, the nacelle globes will be below the deck line on the saucer. you will have to run some kind of metal rod or plank up those struts and really glue the strut support inside the secondary hull heavily. Don't feel bad one time I put both inside nacelle pieces on one nacelle and the other one was both outer nacelle tube half's. sheesh was that lame! I had to really consider opening windows and not having my ''friends'' come over to hang out after that!