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What happened to the T-Trak and On30 ideas?

Yes, I have been so informed. Sorry about that.

If you quit, then why were you trying to post? People who make a point of saying they are leaving don't actually do it--the ones who do, just disappear. EDIT: In fact, the post just above this one is yours, too. But you said you'd quit. Which is it?

You're all over the map here. You had that other thread dealing with your interest in scratchbuilding in On30. What happened to that?

I don't think you get a worthwhile track plan by limiting the number of track switches you use. If you're going to use overhead, then learn to do it right, don't compromise your track plan to make the job easier.

Okay, I understand that an "aquapark" is a "water park," but what's a "rondabout"? A traffic-control device?

You should subscribe to Narrow Gauge & Shortline Gazette. Lots of coverage of prototypes and models of the kind of railroads you'd like to model.

You must be doing something wrong. I've been at this for decades myself and have never had problems with track switches causing derailments, in N scale, HO scale, or On30.

What's the problem? It's all been done before. Not sure what you're thinking here.

If you drop a knife, don't try to catch it. Don't solder while wearing short pants.

Not many prototype standard-gauge railroads went in a circle, yet lots of model railroads do! There is no reason On30 must be a point-to-point design; mine sure isn't.

I'm building an On30 layout. About 10 by 10 feet, open in the center. Handlaying track.

Yes--CSC is my second choice if, by some chance, the alcohol doesn't do the job. I highly recommend it as well.

Safest product is 91% isopropyl alochol. It isn't caustic, doesn't have much in the way of fumes, and I have soaked cars in it for literally weeks (when I forgot them) with no ill effects. Paint generally comes off in sheets with a toothbrush after an hour or so soaking. Very cheap, in...

Glad I could help.

Last time this happend to me, PayPal got me my money back. AND I kept the item, which I used for parts.

Frankly, very little. This loco was a dog when it was introduced in the 70s--now, the bar for a good "basic steam engine" has been raised beyond the Tyco's abitity to reach it. Considering how much worked you'd have to put into it, versus the result you can expect, I wouldn't bother.

Yes, you really do get what you pay for.

Considering how often Dremel cut-off wheels disintergrate at high speed, I can't imagine how you thin they'e safer than rail nippers. BOTH require safety glasses.

Almost enough to make me want to move to Z scale...but then I realize that I'm not the artist he is! The site features some remarkable modeling, though, and it's inspiring..if someone can do that in Z, then I ought to be able to do great work in O scale, too. Just look at the interior...