ManitobaMando's Dr. Doom (pep and sintra build)

manitobamando

New Member
I was always pretty hesitant in using pep files. For me its still a fairly new medium to work in, and as a costume builder/designer, jumping in to something I have never used before was a big step. as my primary medium is plastic or fibreglass.

Still, we do not learn unless we try.

This build is ongoing, and while I gather up the shots I do have, feel free to ask questions and comment. Its because of this new found fascination with paper models that has gotten me on track to wanting to do my own 3D model work and supply AND give back to the community as I can.

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Behzad

New Member
great work bro
but plz share with us ur techniques bcoz there is lot to learn from ur model
plz also share how u smooth the surface of the model(pic 3)
what kind of paper u use for this model
thanks
 

manitobamando

New Member
And so I shall!

Image 1 (far left) shows the pep file in its assembled stage. I used card stock for the printing (120gsm), after making sure that the size was the right fit in Pepakura Designer. HOWEVER (and please note) that even when the size was right, I could have gone slightly bigger to accommodate for the resin and fibreglass stages, just to be sure. (if requested I can share the file)

When the paper model was assembled, I used a straight mix of resin and hardener and coated the OUTSIDE of the helmet first, doing so in quarters so that the paper model would not be so weak from saturation that it would not hold its shape. Coating the outside this way, by painting only 1 quarter at a time, ensured that there would be no warping. It might take longer, but any costume or model worth doing is also worth taking time for.

Once the outside was cured and stiff, I cut up 1 by 1 inch squares of fibreglass matte (fibrous) and began to coat the INTERIOR of the helmet to give it support and an added layer of strength. It is HIGHLY advisable to do this, as the sanding and smoothing stage will require a good base to work on.

IMAGE TWO (center)
Here we begin the smoothing stages, using bondo, 80 grit sandpaper, time and patience. I use bondo to help further smooth the contours of the helmet and face. In this case, I did not want to use the facial features of the pep file, so I began sculpting my own design at thsi stage, using the pep file as a guide. By cutting patterns out of paper or painters tape, I was able to trace those patterns onto scraps of sintra plastic to begin my sculpting.

IMAGE THREE (right)
Here you can see how the sintra plastic, cut into patterns, integrate with the rest of the helmet, using bondo as a filler. Sandable primer paint helps to find imperfections, which can once more be filled using bondo or in the case of small pits, glazing putty and sanded smooth with 120 or 200 grit sandpaper.
 

manitobamando

New Member
I can do that.

First, resin and hardener. This two part chemical compound is available at any hardware store. It can be used on its own as a casting agent, or used in conjunction with cloth in molds or in this case, used as a strengthener. Fibreglass has many uses and applications from tent poles to surfboards.

Bondo is similar to fibreglass resin as it is also a two part polymer. When mixed with hardener it becomes a solid plastic filler, and is used to fill in imperfections in many things. It adheres to wood, plastic , metal etc. and is used a great deal in auto body shops.

Sintra is the brand name for expanded closed-cell polyvinyl chloride (PVC) extruded in a homogenous sheet with a low gloss matte finish. It comes in various thicknesses and is a wonderful material to use in fabricating costume armor. When heat is applied using a heat gun, boiling water, or even an oven, the plastic sheet becomes soft and pliable enough that you can bend and shape it as you need. Once cooled, it retains that shape until heated again. However, when pvc is heated and formed, the amount of stretching done may impede you from trying to re-shape into another form without some distortion.
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
This is a GREAT video!!!
Thank you for taking the time to put it together and sharing it with us!!!
I look forward to seeing more!!!
 

manitobamando

New Member
Thanks folks. Right now, I am working on full leg and foot armor, using a pep file ONLY as a guide, and forming them by hand for shape out of sintra. I do plan on using the magnet fastening idea to REALLY test out the strength of the hold, so Ill keep updating as I test.

In the meantime, here is a test fitting of hood and helmet for Doom. :) Cheek areas will be filled in using circut boards from a broken cell phone and the mouth will be getting a grill.
 

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manitobamando

New Member
Thanks! Once this is done, I can move on to another set of full fantasy armor, and maybe finally get my Classic Cylon on the go! :)
 

manitobamando

New Member
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Well, Dr. Doom is finally completed. Its been a heck of a fun trip to do and wear, and so now, I share!

Starting from top left: Myself, my (now) wife and great friend posing for a selfie.
Middle top: Full view of the helmet, as stated earlier, a pep and sintra sculpt
Top right: Myself and Lady Deathstrike from Saskatoon Expo
Bottom: My wife and I depicting Doom and Wanda Maximoff

Up next will be the classic Cylon, and I will start a new thread on that when I get around to it!
 

Chumcicle

New Member
That Doctor Doom is incredible! Also, the rare Earth magnets tip is brilliant! Thanks for all your efforts! I look forward to your Cylon as well!
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
That really is an exceptional get up. Must have been a lot of thinking, and hard work. It paid off! :)
 

clif52

Banned
Very COOL Dr. Doom! I love the classic DOOM! Very nice work. I'd like to build one of those just to dress a manikin and set it in my art studio.
Clif
 
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