Building a complete 1841 Depot. roundhouse, shops, train shed and station.

zathros · Jul 14, 2018

I would agree on the sealing. It will make the model last a very long time. I have a 12" rowboat/sailing model based on a Whitbread training sloop, I made 18 years ago. I sealed the card stock with liquid crazy glue (I was outside when I poured it, something I would never do again) This many years later, the paper feels like plastic, and it still floats, also, it holds painting better once sealed..

toptrain1 · Jul 14, 2018

Great bit of info about sealing cardstock. I won't be using crazy glue but Krylon primer in a lite tan color named "Matte River Rock".
* I have reinforced the roof floor with a second layer of cardstock making it stronger.

* Here is the floor with one segement added.

* Here is the floor with all reinforcing segments inplace.

frank

zathros · Jul 14, 2018

I'd go with "Krylon" too, it has great penetration and will suit your needs excellently. I don't use Crazy Glue for anything anymore. I use U.V. Activated epoxies for really hard stuff. Home Depot sells some of this stuff. It is incredibly strong, and dries instantly, and extremely hard under the U.V. light supplied in the applique pen. Great for fixing the otherwise un-fixable. I have made small plastic gears with it.

Doctor G · Jul 14, 2018

zathros said:
I'd go with "Krylon" too, it has great penetration and will suit your needs excellently. I don't use Crazy Glue for anything anymore. I use U.V. Activated epoxies for really hard stuff. Home Depot sells some of this stuff. It is incredibly strong, and dries instantly, and extremely hard under the U.V. light supplied in the applique pen. Great for fixing the otherwise un-fixable. I have made small plastic gears with it.

View attachment 166206

That is an interesting product. I think dentists use UV activated epoxies. Have you seen it in use in model construction??? Thanks. Doc Tom

toptrain1 · Jul 15, 2018

I never knew about that method of repairing things. I have had it done to me by a dentist a few times. I never knew exactly what he was doing and didn't ask. This deserves a VERY INTERESTING CLASSIFICATION:
THANKS ZACK!

FRANK

toptrain1 · Jul 15, 2018

*Following right up on this last post, back to the build! Today I'll get down the basement and clean off the table saw. Find some scrap wood, and pick out some thin plywood, get it back upstairs to where I can draw it up. Double check my measurements and make 10 triangular cut outs for my A frames. I will number them to match the measurements, get them back to the attic, and see what i've done. A lot of this build has been for me more exprements then following someone else's instructions on how to do a build of this type. Something which I have not found anywhere. A building with a curved center peaked roof, curved upright rear wall, and a front wall built off of a front curve in 9 flat segments, isn't something most modelers would attempt. I did think about building a similar roundhouse 5 or 6 years ago and shied away from it once realizing what it would take to build it. I did found out what it takes to do it. it doesn't take alot. All you need to do is sit down and start, and remember only that at some time it will be done.
frank

toptrain1 · Jul 15, 2018

Well here are my solid wood A frames installed.
frank

toptrain1 · Jul 16, 2018

Another small period locomotive arrived today. A complete, boxed John Bull.

toptrain1 · Jul 16, 2018

Here is what it looks like out of the box.

Gandolf50 · Jul 16, 2018

Krylon! Right after I print a new model I coat each side just till the card takes on a translucency then let that side dry, then the other side.. works like a charm! The cheap 20$ 4x4 pack replacement ink jet ink from my Canon iX doesn't run or smudge either!

That John Bull looks great right out the box... little weathering and yo'll be good to go.. this will really look like what I envisioned when I was looking for some views of the station for ya!

Doctor G · Jul 16, 2018

The John Bull model is really nice. Amazing to see the birth of steam technology that rode the rails for the next 100 years. All the basics of a steam locomotive are in that early ancestor. A very good find. Doc Tom

zathros · Jul 17, 2018

The U.V. Epoxy is also a dielectric, and great for mechanically solderless connections. A simple squeeze with a set of needle nose crushes them. They don't degrade under U.V. light, they actually become even stronger. I have fixed glasses,, small plastic gears for model cars, and have built up cockpit glass for some of my some small Jet Toy planes. Really impressive stuff. It also works good as a bearing surface. Just put very little Vaseline of the length of the rod, and then goop and hit the spot with the U.V. light, Instant plain bearing, as the stuff doesn't stick to Vaseline. Home Depot carries it.

toptrain1 · Jul 18, 2018

* These "Early Trains" sets by Bachmann are wonderful sets. Very colorful and most came with track and a power pack. Most engines and cars were sold separately like this last one I got. There are a least 5 different sets., and three different locomotives. Three of the sets use what bachmann says is a Norris 4-2-0. Rogers Baldwin and others made almost the same locomotive copping whoever made it first. Most were inside connected and in a few years almost all were outside connected. Very shortly after this a additional driver was used making the first 4-4-0.
* edit 7-18-18; I am adding some photos taken today to this post that has none.

* I have 10 of the 18 roof sections done and mounted. Also before doing the last one i used the Krylon primer to seal the cardstock. I also added a third layer of cardstock to the bottom to stiffen it.

1-The bottom with a layer added and primered.

2- second photo of roof top primered.

3- another view of the roof top primered. Well 8 more roof sections, more primer to new sections. Then paint the roof top black.

Doctor G · Jul 18, 2018

That looks good and sturdy. Appears the K. primer is working out. Good job!
Doc Tom :animated:

toptrain1 · Jul 19, 2018

Just took these photos with all sections in and primed. Roof detail needs to be done then the eide detail. then the track to the turntable. This track I fear that I will not be able to do with such a small turntable, 40 feet in diameter, and it must be centered at a location where all centerlines of the tracks coming out of the turntable stalls converge to a point. I may have to do something to allow for these 9 stalls. I won't know until I actually do the track work. I am putting this off for as long as I can.
frank.

toptrain1 · Jul 23, 2018

This came today. The Bachmann Lafayette set in HO scale. Just the loco and cars. It was reasonable without the box, information, track, and power pack.
frank

toptrain1 · Jul 23, 2018

I started today on the four roof vents and in 2 hours made one.
frank

toptrain1 · Jul 23, 2018

Another photo of the B&O Lafayette set by Bachmann.
frank

Doctor G · Jul 23, 2018

Another very nice old steam train. I like the roof vents too. Looking good.

Doc Tom

toptrain1 · Jul 24, 2018

Tom two more vents and I get to finish off this rooftop. Only one more now. I have put down my tools to check out my old type trains. Just seeing what I got that could match the 1834 t0 1871 that the NJRR&TCo operated.

Building a complete 1841 Depot. roundhouse, shops, train shed and station.

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