Hi everyone,

I'm currently building a model of the Graf Spee and to be honest, it sucks. Not the design, but my build. I just can't get a smooth surface like all the other modelers here can. I don't know why, I use very little glue, cut out very careful, even make my own glueing tabs, but it all doesn't work. The end result is uneven, small gaps and a very ugly model. Does anyone have any tips about how to improve this - or better, what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!

BEFORE WE BEGIN THE COMPARISION...

Like many of us, i have built countless Athearn Blue Box(BB) AND Accurail kits. Though BOTH of these are on the cheaper end as far as kits go, i find them to be the BEST kits you can get for the small amount of money they cost .

I feel comparing these kits is quite fair, since they both cost about $10.00, give or take $5.00 depending on where you buy them. the amount of parts are about the same, the quality between the two is about the same, and the skill level to build them is about the same:winki: .

After building 3 covered hoppers, back to back today, i felt compelled to write up this comparison since while both kits are similar, they both have very distinct differences, thats differences that i never noticed till i built them back to back.

THREE REGRETS...

1- i didn't take pics of the steps along the way , but hey, i didn't know i was going to write this till after i built them:119: .
2- i wish i had a scale to give you folks the exact weights of the cars , i use dads scale to get the weight right, but thats at his house.:119:
3- BOTH covered hoppers are ACF, but the Athearn BB has four discharges, the Accurail has three, so these are not 100% identical, but i feel they are plenty close enough to compare them:winki: .

ONE LAST NOTE:

The Athearn BB i am using in the comparison is actually a Bev-Bel Athearn, for those that don't know what that means, simply, its a regular Athearn BB, but it comes in a road name that Athearn didn't produce, thats it, so that means except the paint its just a plain old Athearn BB.

**ACF COVERED HOPPER KITS, ATHEARN BB V/S ACCURAIL**

Athearn BB



Accurail



MAIN BODY PARTS & APPEARANCE BEFORE ASSEMBLY...

The Athearn BB had three more BODY parts then the Accurail, these parts were the four top hatches on the hopper, the Accurail just had one continuous hatch that represented all four top hatches. i found the Athearn BB hatches to be better detailed, but in the same token, Accurail did do a good job on the detail of the single piece looking like four separate hatches.

The main body shell on the Athearn BB had just a touch more detail to it then the Accurail did, but nothing real significant, i found BOTH to be about the same quality wise:winki: .

The paint on BOTH of them was very good , the lettering was crisp and the small writing was legible on both of them also.

TRUCKS...

Ahtearn BB
Came assembled, plastic wheels with metal axles. i checked to make sure they were in gauge, and they were. The trucks are attached to the body by screws.

Accurail
The trucks had to be assembled, plastic wheels and plastic axles. i checked to make sure they were in gauge, and they were. The trucks are attached to the body by screws, or push pins, you have the choice, the parts are there for both ways.

COUPLERS...

Athearn BB

Came with horn hook couplers only. They are mounted with the old Athearn standard "push clip".

Accurail

Came with two sets of couplers, a set of accumate couplers, and a set of "dummy" couplers. They are mounted by screws.

NOTE: I wouldn't use the couplers from EITHER of these two kits, you just cant beat Kadee's:winki: .

BODY ASSEMBLY...

Athearn BB

After cutting the sprues off, and deburring the parts, i found that most of the pieces didn't fit well together at all:eeki: . additional shaving of some of the parts edges was definitely needed for a nice match up fit.

the weight on the Athearn needs to be glued in with CA or with double faced tape to keep it in place.

Getting the two end pieces to fit right for a good fit on to the main body might take a try or two, i didn't find this design real "user friendly", don't get me wrong, its not that hard, but like i said, you might not get it right on the first try .

Accurail

After cutting the sprues off, and deburring the parts, i found EVERY PART fit together PERFECTLY , NO ADDITIONAL shaving on the edges of parts was needed, the models pieces basically just all fell right into place, EXCELLENT fit up.

The weight is held into place by tabs located on both ends of the car, no need to glue it in, its not going anywhere.

NOTE: you probably wouldn't have to, but i glue the models together for better durability:winki: . BEFORE GLUING, if you go that route, make sure you add the proper weights to the car FIRST, you'll thank yourself later for doing that .

FINISHED PRODUCTS...

Finished, BOTH of these kits made for some real nice models, as you can see from the pics posted in this thread . They BOTH rolled well, and the coupler hight was correct on each of them. i did however notice that the Accurail weighed just over twice that of the Athearn BB:eeki: , i couldn't believe how light the Athearn BB ended up being, so like i mentioned before, be sure and use your scale before you glue the bottoms on, so you can get the weight of the cars correct.

Personally, while i liked BOTH cars, the Athearn had just a touch more detail, just a touch mind you, but as far as assembly goes, the Accurail was easier, and made much better.

DISSCLAIMER...

These were only MY observations while building these kits, you may/may not find my observations to be the same as yours:winki: . ALSO, this comparison only goes for the ACF COVERED HOPPERS,...the boxcars, etc. could be a whole other story:winki::119: .

To all,

It's time to try out my paper model design skills. My first project is the Republic F-84G Thunderjet. I chose this because it is a straight winged aircraft with simple lines, is not available in a larger scale (1/32), and because most of the "G's" were extravagently painted. I also plan to design a swept-wing "F" version for my dad. He served in the Indiana ANG in France during the Berlin crisis of the early 60's. I have 8mm films of him sitting in the cockpit of an F-84F Thunderstreak arming a nuclear bomb.

Picture 1: A comparison between the white prototype and the painted version. Note that the proto version had too much angle of wing incidence - corrected on the final version.

Pictures 2 and 3: Close ups - wing angle differences...

Picture 4: Proctologist's view of the engine bay (minus engine). The engine assembly will slide in like a shotgun cartridge.

Picture 5: Tail section showing the NACA duct.

Picture 6: Closeup of the intake, aux air inlet, and gun ports.

Enjoy

Ken

I've taken the plunge and started 5 new Bend Track modules to replace the 4' x 10' layout in my shop space. I realized that if I went around the walls, I could have 3x more mainline, and the trains would go somewhere -- and come back. This is based on Bend Track standards with a branch line down the middle (I think called Frend Track). Track will be Peco code 55 with 19' min radius. Flat, but with a mountain/logging run climbing over one of the end modules.



I am trying a super light construction method of gluing foam directly to the frames and reinforcing with fiberglass on the fascias to protect the foam and securely bond it to the frames. The foam and fascias will be cut down in a few places for some deep valleys.



The modules are designed to fit into the square shop space, but can be arranged into much more undulating arrangements outside the shop.



More pictures and descriptions at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dannsparks/BendTrack#
I'll try to keep them updated.

Thanks for all the ideas and advice from forum members.

I dont want to go to a instructor, or use a movie. I was wondering if anyone had any good advice.

Hello Everyone,

I've recently posted a video "how to" type series on my youtube channel here
YouTube - b1heqh54's Channel

please feel free to have a look and leave a comment or question

the mould is of a 1/7th scale P-40E warhawk - my fav!

Thought I would start a new thread with a bunch of HAKOS I have skinned / designed (some based off of exiting models and others "frankenstiened). Let me know what you all think. (HAKO: Japanese for Box shape). There is quite a variety and I plan on many, many more off-beat characters that haven't been done in HAKO form before (that I know of). If your interested in building any, let me know! These are simple models I like to work on when not building the more complex models that are out there (Yamaha bikes etc.) I have posted these in another thread, but I felt that I was hijacking the original, hence I moved to this new thread. If anyone has suggestions for characters etc, let me know!!



ROBOCOP



HARVEY BIRDMAN and SPACE GHOST



SPIDER JERUSALEM (from Transmetropolitan)



RORSCACH (from Watchmen)



ALL FATHER and ARSE FACE (from Preacher)



JESSIE and TULIP (from Preacher)



SAINT OF KILLERS and CASSIDY (from Preacher)



SI COLTRANE and JODY (from Preacher)



CINDY DAGGETT (from Preacher)



HOOVER, FEATHERSTONE and HERR STARR (from Preacher)



WILL FERRELL (SNL Spartan Chearleader)



PAR D HARDEY HUSKER NATION

Hi,
I have bought the new Walkera 5G6 a couple of weeks ago. What a nice little four channel co-axial helicopter.
Please visit my website http://www.walkerasite.com/walkera_5_g_6.html for a full review, photo's and video clips.
You will be amazed how good and stable this little helicopter flies.
Happy flying
Laurentius

Ok, I'm in cleveland (ohio) this weekend, and I'm wondering if anybody knows of any shops in the cleveland/akron area that sell card models. On a side note, I'll be going to Nasa Glenn research center this weekend!

I will be in Dallas starting tomorrow (Friday 10/19) through Sunday, and in Houston until Monday. I'm wondering if anybody knows of any shops that I should visit with my credit card to pick up some kits.