Recent content by zener

Ok, I found this site, which answers alot of my questions: http://www.xs4all.nl/~raicho/model/track/track.htm by default n scale is code 80 (really code 83). In looking at the Tomix part numbers, it looks like for turnouts and curves, the part numbers are radius-angle.

What manufacturer choices do I have for n scale code 80? I'm also trying to figure out where I can pick up #4 and #5 remote dcc friendly code 80 turnouts as well. Also, I'm looking at track only, no uni-track Those I know of: Atlas, #6 remote turnouts Peco, #4 turnouts I know Kato and Roco...

Hey, I've been posting for almost a month now, looking to do an n scale freestyle layout of a mix city/scenic scene in a 6 foot by 8 foot layout, which will be sectional.

This is where my newbness of not having done this before shows. In controlling more than one train/consist, all u should need to do is punch in the train address and start controlling that train, which I would assume takes as fast as you can punch in the numbers and hit enter. I'm assuming the...

I'm looking at doing a dcc layout with turnouts controlled by my dcc controller. I'm looking at using code 80 due to my solder skills or lack there of:) Anywho, anyone have any suggestions? I'm looking at Roco as they have a pretty good selection on remote controlled code 80 turnouts.

Two of those would be yard switchers and one train would have 2 locos, so it comes to about 4 running at the same time. From what I've read I think the super empire builder (db150) will handle it, and one piece of advise I'm reading is start with half of what you think you will need in terms of...

I'm trying to decide which dcc system to go with. I'm looking at 7 locomotives and about 16 turnouts. My other goal is to eventually get automated computer control working. NCE seems to be out as there cab seems very limited in only controlling 4 trains at a time. When I look at digitrax...

Hey, I'm doing model rr for the first time, but being pretty aggressive on my goals. I'm doing an n-scale 6x8 setup, with at least 5 locos, 6 mainline turnouts, plus a railyard and harbor (more turnouts, about 9 total). In looking at dcc systems, it seems the DCS50 would do me good, unless...

What about the eruopean models? Does anyone know if the European models are fine with code 40 or need code 55? I'd be looking at doing some traction soon and see the European trains as my only option there. Also, forgive my newness, but it sounds like code 55 works fine for everything, code...

Ok, I need to do some more reading. Home Depot did have foam that was under 1 inch thick, but I discarded the idea of buying it because I want to do some carving. However, it appears what I should probably should be pursuing is a modular layout setup, using the foam as the base (no carving...

So the question that does come to mind is where does one get two inch foam from? Home Depot doesn't carry it, so by definition, Lowes won't either, since they don't know how to stock different variety (yay crappy chain stores) wall1

So, I've decided to go with mdf for a base, its particle board like plywood only not warped. Anywho, Now I'm thinking about how to have a river, mountains, grade changes, and rolling terrain to look realistic. My two approach thoughts are: 1. Use foam as a base and carve out the scenery...

Yeah, from what I've read, I think the best course of action is to solder in the rail feeder and leave the rail joiners not soldered (or at least don't depend upon the rail joiners for electrical connectivity, especially for dcc).

Thanks guys, I'm a little more educated on that. Yeah, Russ I am using flex track wherever possible, partially because its cheaper. My soldering skills are ok, but I do like the look of the terminal joiners, I'll have to keep that in mind. I've got more confidence on rail soldering. I'm used...

I'm sure there's a thread out there , but I have a really newbish, wiring question. For the track, how do you actually run the wires and connect them? I take it you solder the wire to the bottom of the track, and then just drill a small hole through the roadbed (if its not just ballast) down...