Recent content by green_elite_cab

Well, considering you responding to a three year old thread, i do think this is a little outdated. For one thing, I'll say it first, the plan in this thread sucks. It does, but thats because i was trying to squeeze it into a space that was unrealistic. there is no way an NEC layout will be...

I actually eventually upgraded mine to DCC. The thing is, its still that ridiculous gearing in the trucks that holds the Metroliner back. I'm seriously considering just buying a ton of the new NWSL Stanton drives and installing them in every other car. Underfloor powered trucks are more...

Well, i've begun work on my more realistic, super-detailed catenary. THIS is what i wanted to do for that contest, but could not. I basically only have one pole mostly done, as it is TEDIOUS adding some of the details, mainly the grab iron ladders. The transmission arms are on, as are...

well, i finally did find a prototype for that single pole-double tracked catenary pole i built, but i have since changed the catenary spacing on my layout, so its no longer needed anyway. turnouts and interlockings i think i have a basic idea now. so far, i've been experimenting with...

[/B] Yeah, i never have been able to get Yahoo Groups working right. anyway, i'll have to look into it. Yeah, they are more commonly used in tank and aircraft modeling (atleast. thats the groupgs its been marketed to). the other modeling hobbies often have stuff useful to us. for...

yikes, that does seem tough, but its not impossible, I'll figure it out. How do pull off wires work when they are in between tracks? I wish i could see a schematic or a diagram. I've found plenty of sites explaining it, yet no pictures :roll:. yeah, I've noticed this. I've decided to be...

Madness! the auxiliary wire really helps keep things steady and make smooth connections too. I'll have to figure a way to either simulate it (despite the complications), or McGuyver it (after all, if most of the people i've asked don't know how its done, i just need to make it blend in to...

You wouldn't happen to have anything on how turnouts and crossovers are wired? i have a few spots that need that. thanks a bunch! :rolleyes: i wish i read that sooner, i just bought a 140 watt Weller model from Home depot. that said, it seems to be working (and also replaces my dad's which...

[/B] At the same time, however, rail is notoriously difficult to solder well, and its getting a bit thin for me to work with well. I did have a larger solder gun that managed to make good strong connections to my steel wire, but it seems to be out of order, so i only have my 40 watt iron for...

I have to be honest, i'm not convinced thats a 4x8. DO you have an overal picture from above?

Because soldering straight to side of the rails doesn't work. the pieces to easily snap off. Anchoring it in some how will give the catenary extra strength. That is why i've decided to use Brass H-columns for my catenary structures. not only does this look more accurate, i can hide the...

I have most of that stuff, but i use either the rail or "Special Shapes Company" H-column for my stuff (if i can find it). I also use this steel wire stuff i've found that is a great deal sturdier than the standard copper wire, and i've found some more realistic thicknesses than that i was...

Thats pretty impressive. I still haven't gotten around to completing my catenary. I just can't find the tools to make the job practical. my hand tools are just no good VS the metal parts i'm using.

You can get the tripod at Best By, but be careful, they break easily where the legs meet the body :( I already have to get a new one. I just need to not bend it so much next time i guess :lolol: I will be posting some videos in a few minutes of my trains at my local model railroad club, the...

I'm surprised you don't have a GP38-2, or a GP40-2. in your case, i might even buy a GP15-1