The Whiskey River Railway

Bill Nelson

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Dec 14, 2008
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nice plans

I like those plans, at a quick glance they look good, and would make a good start to a larger railroad should you have space and time later.


Nelson
 

gbwdude

General Manager, W.R.Ry.
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Doc and Bill,

The L shaped module is more than likely what I'd build while I'm here, for the simple fact I can use it to do switching moves more so than a big yard. At first I wanted my quarry to be a separate module to give it distance but I never thought about how it could be integrated into one of the towns along the way, such as the case for Rock Ridge here.

The Rock Ridge/Quarry module is probably the only module that will have anything smaller than a #6 switch, as the lead for the quarry and all the quarry switches will be stub #4's or maybe smaller. The motive power that will be switching the quarry is Doc's old Heisler and should be sufficient to bring at most six cars out of the quarry. In retrospect I may have to flip-flop where the gravel/crushed rock loader is and the cut stone so I can fit more hopper cars into the siding, as I can't imagine a quarry producing a lot of cut stone (I'd guess less than a carload of cut stone a week) compared to maybe 4-5 cars of crushed stone a week.

The big yard, Merrick as it's named, has gone through various planning stages and I've came up with many different plans to which I may or may not incorporate into the final design. At first I wanted to turn my locomotives using a wye but soon came to realize that it would suck up too much space, even if I were to incorporate yard facilities inside the wye. I eventually borrowed the GB&W's Norwood Yard plan and cut that down as in real life it didn't have much space to work with, being squished in between four city blocks, but it did have a turntable. That's also why I liked the yard plan I recently posted, it seemed like it would work with minor modifications.

Tyler
 

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Bill Nelson

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wyes do take up a huge amount of space; I'm trying to find a way to squeeze one into my upper deck @ the New Ridgemont; so passenger trains going to State line could turn themselves at Ridemont, and back into state line. which would allow me to avaoid the hastle of trying to tun the head end cars on the turntable, and shuffle the train on the inadaquate passing siding.


At the end of the lowest level there will be a return loop just past Montgomery Furnace, and there will be one in Harlow and in Southern staging, so State line and Crooked Creek would be the only major sites without a way of turning a passenger train, and any passenger trains @ Crooked creek would be through trains, going somewhere else.


Nelson
 

gbwdude

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WRRy C1 making slow progress

While I haven't been making any progress designing Camp Pierre or any other module for potential use while I've been here, I did get a little handy working on caboose C1 and inspecting the Bachmann van that Bob gave to me. I took down dimensions of the original motor to see if I can find a potential replacement and that's about it. I know it was a tight squeeze to let Thomas have DCC, but this one might be tighter as I think even a Z scale decoder may be too big. More to follow on that later.

Caboose C1, however, has had slightly more progress done to her than just measurements. A few days ago, I painted her underframe and internal weights black and today I cut down the toolbox that will be mounted on the underside of the car. The original toolbox was from one of my Athearn caboose kitbashes that are now C5 and C6 and the cast metal detail was left over from a old work car that was crushed on it's way from Korea last time I was here. Weather permitting (since it's monsoon season here, lots of rain and humidity) it should be painted sometime this week. I haven't had a chance to hit up a hobby store, so right now I'm working with flat black spray paint and Gorilla glue.
 

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Doctor G

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Sep 1, 2008
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Glad you are getting some model time.

While I haven't been making any progress designing Camp Pierre or any other module for potential use while I've been here, I did get a little handy working on caboose C1 and inspecting the Bachmann van that Bob gave to me. I took down dimensions of the original motor to see if I can find a potential replacement and that's about it. I know it was a tight squeeze to let Thomas have DCC, but this one might be tighter as I think even a Z scale decoder may be too big. More to follow on that later.

Caboose C1, however, has had slightly more progress done to her than just measurements. A few days ago, I painted her underframe and internal weights black and today I cut down the toolbox that will be mounted on the underside of the car. The original toolbox was from one of my Athearn caboose kitbashes that are now C5 and C6 and the cast metal detail was left over from a old work car that was crushed on it's way from Korea last time I was here. Weather permitting (since it's monsoon season here, lots of rain and humidity) it should be painted sometime this week. I haven't had a chance to hit up a hobby store, so right now I'm working with flat black spray paint and Gorilla glue.

Glad to see you are getting some down time and a chance at some relaxing model making.

Looks like the monsoons have cooled down the hotheads up north of the border. Hope it stays calm for you.

The guys on the Little River say "hey" and look forward to your next visit

Doc Tom
 

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gbwdude

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More on C1 and some new additions

WRRy caboose C1 got a little more work done to her yesterday. I painted her roof and the toolbox black. I do have a issue I haven't had before, when I peeled back the masking tape some of the paint on the window castings came off with the tape. What I'm probably going to do is pop out the castings, strip the paint off and try again. Hopefully I can find the right paint on the internet, as I used the Floquil Caboose Red aerosol paint and hopefully they'll ship it to me over here without an issue. Finding it over here would be almost impossible as Koreans don't seem to believe in model railroading. I haven't found any luck at finding another model railroad hobby shop, and the only one I knew of is in Seoul. They mostly carried N scale stuff, and what little HO scale stuff they did have was all RTR stuff. Especially with Floquil going out of business soon I'm sure I don't have a easy task ahead of me.

About two or three weeks ago on eBay I bought a set of five old Roundhouse gondolas from River City Railroad. I don't know where they get the undecorated MDC cars from, especially in any quantity, and sell them for $17 for the set plus s&h. But hey, it's great for me! The WRRy now has enough gons for a while, as I have two painted and on my roster, and will have three or four more. I'll keep some undecorated in case I change my mind or find some other decals to decorate it for another railroad.

Speaking of gondolas, I found the gem in the last picture on eBay also for the steal of $8. Any of the Gorre and Daphetid cars that MDC made in the 80's usually command a pretty high premium these days, most cars go for $20 or more with the passenger cars going for even more. This car came with a pretty nice pair of fully sprung trucks with metal wheelsets and Kadee #5's already installed. The only issue I have is with the trucks, they're too modern to be rolling on the WRRy, but for now they'll work. All in all I found another great deal.
 

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Doctor G

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Good workmanship on the caboose. I like the little layout you got going there too Tyler. Is that part of the plan you sent a while back??

The gondolas will make a great addition to your fleet. I donated a 1980's era G&D MDC Box Car to the club that I used to use as a track cleaning car. Maybe I should pirate it away and sell it on Evil Bay??? Nawh too much work and the holes drilled in the bottom for the slider and the heavy weathering job would probably keep folks from bidding.

Enjoying your posts from half way around the world.

Dr Tom
 

Bill Nelson

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Dec 14, 2008
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Greetings from the Highland Rim, and beautiful Cumberland heights, Home of impossibly cool summer wearhther, and equally impossible humidity levels, that make our OEM cooling systems useless, thourougly negating any bennifit that might have been derived from the cooler weather.

Dr Tom has been running passenger trains at the club, and he found that my little Bachman consolodation is considerably stouter than his old Mountain, which is close to twice it's size. I wanted to relay this information to you, as you once expressed an interest in the Bachman consolodations.

Once opon a time I was nuetral in my evaluation of the Bachman 2-8-0; in spite of the fact that the mechanism was glass smooth, and the detailing was quite good, I was deeply concerned about the availability of certain parts. when I last worked on the SR 2-8-0 from my home layout, many of the parts I was most concerned about were not available. ( for those of you not familair with my history, I have turned into a mechanism freak- my first locomotive is still in active service after 47 years). the last time I checked the Bachman parts catalouge they did not have some critical parts available, but now they do, so the bachman 2-8-0, which was always a very well engneered piece of equipment, is now well supported with avilable parts, so it is now something I can recomend whole heartedly.

The Club's SR 2-8-0, which I appropriated after doing massive electrical and mechanical repairs , and adding a medium steam Tsunami, has been so much fun I'm ready to Replace some parts on my Home RR's SR 2-8-0, to get it to run as smooth as the unit at the club. I'm thinking another Tsunami installation is in order, to allow double headding at the club; and that had me looking at the Bachman parts website.

The critical design flaw with this locomotive, which is comon amoung steam locomotive design, is that the drawbar between the locomotive and the tender slips on a pin on the tender. if this pin comes off the drawbar, the locomotive pulls the train by the wires between the tender and the locomotive, the strain on the wires causes wires to break, and the micro wirng repairs, while possible if highly skilled are an ugly job.

the soulotion, stip a tiny piece of insulation off a sutibly sized wire , press it n the tendr post so the drawbar can't slide off, and secure it with a drop of ACC


Moderately intelegent readers might be wondering, "what does this have to do with the Whiskey River?" Highly intelegent readers would have seen my Shay on the bridge picture, realized the source, and gone on to look for real information elsewhere; but while trolling the Bachman web site I found they have
Tender trucks available for thier old time 4-4-0s. the old rivarossi 2-4-0s and 4-4-0's had similar trucks, but they had a tendancy to crack, and no trucks were available in HO with such a small wheel size. but I now have a source for wheels that small which means I can use a set to lower the Casey Jones Tender enough to get a tender mounted motor in line with the old AHM Genoa frame, so I can get back to work on the Bizzare kitbash project to create a 4-4-0 for the Whiskey river with a tender and boiler from an AHM Casey Jones 4-6-0, and a frame and mechanism from a n AHM 4-4-0 , and possibly a cab from an NWSL Sierra 2-8-0, iffin I can find it.


I will be ordering parts soon, when I get them, and can restart the locobashing project I will share photos, Stay safe, and stay in touch


Nelson
 

gbwdude

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Seoul Exploration and other ramblings

Gents,

I apologize for my absence, my supervisor left me in charge of the motor pool for a month so I've been running around like John Bobbit trying to find his prized possession. This last weekend has been kind to me, while most Army folk get a four day Labor Day break us fortunate guys only get three days due to our mission here. I took advantage of my down time to visit one of my old Korean Army buddies from the first time I was here in Seoul. After I left his place I went to the Electronic's Market right outside of Yongsan station to try to find my one old r/c hobby shop to buy a new pinion gear set screw for my r/c truck since mine stripped out somehow after sitting for around eight years. In the process, I asked around if anyone knew of a model railroad hobby shop in the area. All of the places I went to at first had no idea that they had models of trains, until I went to a war/gundam model shop. Then, like out of a movie, God shined a light in the store, a choir of angels came from the sky and I was handed a business card of a model railroad hobby shop not too far away from the big Army base in Yongsan. Albeit it was closed when I went there because it was Sunday, but now I have a lead. We'll see, funds depending I may come home with a Korean piece of equipment.

Bill, after seeing the Bachmann 2-8-0's in service at the club and your reports from the home front I think that has convinced me to acquire one or two for the WRRy. I now have a good idea what to do and what not to do with them, learning from your experiences. Funding depending, I might still spring for a decently priced United AT&SF Consolidation as they usually fetch what a sound and DCC equipped Bachmann Consolidation goes for.

Looking at the destruction manual for the AHM Americans, instead of doing a tender drive could you just swap the geared driver to the back and mount the motor in the boiler?
ahmbuildersbiblepage084.jpg
With the bigger Casey Jones boiler on top of the frame there should be enough room to stuff it in there. Granted I don't have the lokie in front of me to try it, but in my mind everything works as planned. :p
 

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Bill Nelson

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There is more room under the boiler, however the worm is mouted very low, just at or slightly above the top of the frame. Using Bachman 4-4-0 tender trucks ( I bought a pair), I can lower the tender enough to get a straight shot into the mechanism.


Tender drives are widely reviled , but many of the issues were a result of old motors, and simple electrical systems. the oldmotors that would kick in hard at a high speed, would cause the tenders to rock. a tender rocking the wronr way on a traditionally wired locomotive cuts off it's electrical supply. When gravity brings the tender back down the process is repeated, causing jerky erratic throttle response. Once you put electrical pick ups on the insulated side of the locomotive, and replace the 1960's style motor with something with a lower starting voltage, the traditional complaints about tender drives no longer aply.



Nelson
 

Doctor G

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Sep 1, 2008
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Howdy to Tyler from Dr Tom

Hi Tyler,

It is very good to hear from you again.

It sounds like you had a very busy month. I am glad that the North Koreans have cooled their war talk over the last month or so. Hopefully your stay will not be too eventful.

I am glad you found a hobby shop. It did sound like an epiphany of Angels was calling you toward it.

Correct me if I am wrong, but didn't the Koreans make a lot of nice brass HO equipment? Maybe you will find some at a deep discounted price.

It sounds like you and Bill have quite a scheme cooked up for the steam locomotive. Bill does a great job with overhauls of HO steam locomotives.

We have had a lot of activity at the railroad club in the last month or so. We had an actual operating session a couple of weeks ago that was a lot of fun. I even had to call upon a diesel switcher to help move logs from the logging camp down to the yard. It was that busy.

Looking forward to your next post. If you find some treasures in the Korean hobby shop how about sending us a few pictures?

Be at peace.

Dr. Tom
 

zathros

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Nice to hear you made it to Korea safely. I saw some of your pics. It is amazing that a place that is under so much pressure can seem so serene. :)
 

gbwdude

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Gents,

Bill, the pic below is how I was thinking of having the plan laid out. I can't remember if I gave you a small enough motor to jam in there or not, but by having the motor in the locomotive this way it does three things:
1. Keeps the loco aesthetically pleasing to the eye by not having a mystery shaft run from the tender to the loco.
2. Adds weight over the drivers improving tractive effort (not like I expect this to be a powerhouse anyways, in the WRRy world it's a 1870's locomotive reboilered sometime between 1905-1915)
3. Eliminates any possibility of having any tender rock.

Doc Tom, the Koreans did make a lot of the brass that was and still is available on the market. My big Milwaukee Road Northern was made here back in the 70's. Trust me, if I can score a few new lokies for cheap while I'm here I'm going to take that advantage, even if it is to resell to either club members or the eBay community.

Also it's good to hear the club had a op session. It's too bad I missed out on it, but that's what happens when you're in Korea :p.

Zathros, tension on the peninsula has drastically calmed down from where it was when I first got over here. The Korean holiday called Chusok is coming around the corner (September 18-20, essentially the Korean version of Thanksgiving) and both sides have agreed to talk about reuniting families separated by the war during the holiday. Nothing is set in stone yet, but it's good to see they're at least a little compassionate. We'll see how that goes and for how long, as the north is like a moody woman... and we all know how that works.
 

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Bill Nelson

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No contest on the mystery shaft, as an aesthetic issue, it con not be argued with.

The weight is not a valad arguement, any space not used by the motor could be filled with lead, or Tungsten welding rods that are going to weigh way more than a motor,


with a good drawbar, motor and mechanism tender rock is not much of an issue, that is something we saw with motors and designs with thier birth in the 60's..


a motor to fit in as drawm would indeed need to be tiny, as part of it would have to fit inside the farame. I have motors that small, but they are gear reduction motors, and are way to slow for a 4-4-0.

Bill
 

murf10346

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I have looked at different pics of your layout and enjoy the work your are doing.
I also want to thank you for your service to our country.
 

Bill Nelson

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Dec 14, 2008
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Tyler, thought you'd like this. not sure what I'm going to do with it. option 1: flatcar load. Option 2, park it near a VFW post. Option 3, convert it to a log skidder. I know they made log skidders out of Sherman tank hulls after WWII; although the Shermans probably had a much more reliable drive train.
 

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gbwdude

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Bill,

Out of all the options, I'd have to go with a display piece outside of a VFW. From my quick research the VFW was started in the early 1900's to support soldiers returning from the Spanish-American war and the Philippine Insurrection so it'd be in place during a WW2 setting, such as the Whiskey River Railway is. However, being that I have nothing permanent yet, I think that a VFW post on the club layout would be a neat touch. It would also be a neat little way to show the club's appreciation for the vets that do walk in too, as well as Bob, Jesse, Eric and myself... and anyone else I've forgotten.

Just a thought, and thanks for thinking of me.