Space Marine Rhino

fleetsailor1981

New Member
Well I have started my first 40k model from card.I have played in the past but used the standard GW models. But having turned 50 I thought I would chalallange myself. The good news is my 3 year old grandson likes to cut paper with safety scissors so I printed him a model also.I should mention that not only is my first warhammer model it is for all intense my first card model.
 

zathros

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I have the biggest problem with cutting because of nerve damage. Very frustrating! Look forward to seeing your model. :)
 

fleetsailor1981

New Member
I got a photo of him cutting part of his model and will post it as soon as I can figure out how.now for a question. How do I get rid of the white lines at the folds I tried color pincles but no luck
 

ASC Mclaren

Well-Known Member
For coloring the fold line and the cut edge I use a combination of colored pencils (Prisma color) and colored pens (Sharpie and Prisma color). I have to be very careful of the pens bleeding through. With the pencils I use usually use the side of the graphite, not the tip. I also have to watch out on the pressure, as it can fray the paper.
 

silveroxide

Senior Member
In my case, I have a tendency hand re-paint my models but occasionally when I do not do that, I try to mix the paint to the closest color and hand paint the edges with acrylic colors. My technique is a bit on the extreme, but it works for me. Good luck and hope to see the models posted soon.
 

fleetsailor1981

New Member
Ok, I think I just figured out how to up load a photo. wish me luck, Ha ha

one of the photos is of my grandson working on his rhino and the other is of mine at the time showing the problems with the white showing as I said this for all intents and purposes is my first model.
 

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fleetsailor1981

New Member
Well I have made progress in two ways. 1st I have a few more sub assemblies completed. 2nd look farther ahead at the assembly. Had I.done that I could have added the side panels before I built the track area. Live and learn, or build and learn in this case. Any suggestions for adding suport to the interior? Thanks
 

Rogerio Silva

Active Member
Well I have made progress in two ways. 1st I have a few more sub assemblies completed. 2nd look farther ahead at the assembly. Had I.done that I could have added the side panels before I built the track area. Live and learn, or build and learn in this case. Any suggestions for adding suport to the interior? Thanks

How about using some formers? Bulkheads, for instance. :confused:
 

silveroxide

Senior Member
Well I have made progress in two ways. 1st I have a few more sub assemblies completed. 2nd look farther ahead at the assembly. Had I.done that I could have added the side panels before I built the track area. Live and learn, or build and learn in this case. Any suggestions for adding suport to the interior? Thanks

Check out my threads on 40k, The baneblade for one. http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174682 or the punisher http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174871 I tend to laminate the parts and they hold out well for table top gaming. I have many build treads and they cover the strengthening of the models. Enjoy and see you around the forum.:thumb:
 

fleetsailor1981

New Member
Silveroxide quick question when lamanating do you use the same card stock as the part or a thicker piece like from a cereal box. Thanks sorry if you covered this in one of your build threads I just changed jobs and have not been able to read through any yet.
 

silveroxide

Senior Member
Silveroxide quick question when lamanating do you use the same card stock as the part or a thicker piece like from a cereal box. Thanks sorry if you covered this in one of your build threads I just changed jobs and have not been able to read through any yet.


I am lucky, in that I have access to heavier stock, about the thickness of a cereal box but with a velum finish. The cardstock is used to make boxes for jewelry or perfume. It has the same thickness qualities of sheet styrene used for scratch building. If you have 120lbs weight paper, it is about the same thickness of three sheets glued together.. A shoe box will give you another good alternative. Remember, large parts like the sides of the track walls, will have a tendency to warp some. I have lead ingot weights which helps in holding down the parts (the lead is for making my own bullet reloads) But placing them between a heavy book like a Tome or Atlas also works.:thumb:
 

fleetsailor1981

New Member
Well back to the beginning I guess that is the great thing about paper models, mess up just reprint and carry on. This time I am going to look ahead and do as much as I.can before folding. I will keep you all posted on the progress.
 

zathros

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You cab use formers but if you are just looking for strength, it is easier and quicker to cut out strips of the inside dimension, and make tubes to glue into strength. This will give you the rigidity you need. If the paper stock is thin, you can add paper inside to make it more rigid, cutting the tubes thinner to compensate. :)
 
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