U-don's Factory Los Angeles Class SSN-688

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BARX2

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Nov 29, 2006
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This is my first sub - my first boat of any kind. I thought I'd try a sub since the hull is very similar to what I do most of, rockets. The model is issued in 1:144, but I reduced it to 1:200 to match the other ships I haven't built yet. sign1 1:200 seems to be a popular scale for ships. You can get the model here:

http://udonfact.hp.infoseek.co.jp/

Link to a few build photos and more finished shots:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jepolch/USSLosAngelesSSN688#
 

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Bengt F

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Nov 26, 2005
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Los Angeles Class Submarine Model by U-Don

BARX2,

What an exceptionally beautiful and clean build! You continue to impress with your expert model building skills. The lines are so straight and clean and the joints are almost invisible.

Great idea to down-scale to 1:200 - the popular model ship scale.

Amazing model work!
Best,
Bengt :thumb:
 
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Bengt F

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Nov 26, 2005
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Hey, BARX2,

I noticed in your build photos that you have a couple of very smart metal clamps that hold the joints and tabs together in a straight fashion as the glue dries. Are these surgical instruments? Any hints on what they are called or where they could be obtained would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, by the way, looking at your neat and organized work bench, it´s very obvious why your models look so incredibly precise and clean (apart from the expert assembly craft and edge-coloring skills, that is).

Thanks for sharing these interesting photos of the work in progress.
Best regards,
Bengt in Stockholm :thumb:
 
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Bengt F

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Nov 26, 2005
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Locking Tweezers

BARX2,

Thanks a lot for the tip. I have looked around a bit on the web and there seems to be both straight and curved versions of this handy tool. I found a 'Cross-lock reverse action tweezer' a bit down this page, called 'Grobet', that looks good: http://www.shorinternational.com/TweezersSlide.htm

Do you have a preference for a brand that is really good quality? I imagine that it must be good to have springs that are a bit on the hard side (and exactly straight/level), for a really tight, precise glue joint, that doesn´t slide around as the glue dries.

What is the brand of your straight locking tweezers?

Thanks.
/Bengt :thumb:
 
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BCA

New Member
Jun 22, 2008
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Seattle
I have looked at some of your builds - they are always so precise with such a good fit and finish. I have downloaded some realspace/spacerace subjects that I was able to find on the net, and have built the FG Friendshp 7 spacecraft and finishing the Saturn 1B from Surfduke. Thanks for sharing your work, it inspires me to keep building and improving my skills. Found some nice subjects from jleslie48.com - Thanks
Greg
 
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BARX2

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Nov 29, 2006
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Bengt Fredén said:
BARX2,

Thanks a lot for the tip. I have looked around a bit on the web and there seems to be both straight and curved versions of this handy tool. I found a 'Cross-lock reverse action tweezer' a bit down this page, called 'Grobet', that looks good: http://www.shorinternational.com/TweezersSlide.htm

Do you have a preference for a brand that is really good quality? I imagine that it must be good to have springs that are a bit on the hard side (and exactly straight/level), for a really tight, precise glue joint, that doesn´t slide around as the glue dries.

What is the brand of your straight locking tweezers?

Thanks.
/Bengt :thumb:
Click to expand...

Bengt, the ones I have are very cheap with no brand name. I have one pair that the spring has gotten weak. The other three pairs are still strong. They are perfect for holding glue tabs in place. I use them for every model I build.
 
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OhioMike

Member
Apr 16, 2007
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Ohio
Outstanding build barx..i second all the compliments mentioned already. I plan on enlargeing this one to 1/96 myself. I hope it looks half as good when i'm done!
 
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Tirt

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
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BARX2, very nice and very clean built ! :D
I really like it very much. :D

I have a question for you about the grey colored parts of this kit.
A friend of mine have printed this same kit, but he feels that the grey color is uneven, that is, slightly different between the parts.
What do you think of it?

Because judging from your pictures, the kit looks great, the grey parts do not look different from each others.
Did you edit the grey color?
What printer do you use?

Please advice.
Thanks. :D
 
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BARX2

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Nov 29, 2006
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Tirt said:
BARX2, very nice and very clean built ! :D
I really like it very much. :D

I have a question for you about the grey colored parts of this kit.
A friend of mine have printed this same kit, but he feels that the grey color is uneven, that is, slightly different between the parts.
What do you think of it?

Because judging from your pictures, the kit looks great, the grey parts do not look different from each others.
Did you edit the grey color?
What printer do you use?

Please advice.
Thanks. :D
Click to expand...

I believe the gray is the same in all pieces. I used an Epson Stylus Photo R1400 in the photo mode and Wassau Bright White card stock, 65 lb. Not sure why your friend's didn't come out looking uniform. Maybe running low on ink? That will affect the consistency of color from page to page, I think.

Thanks for the kind words. My next sub with be the Modelik USS Ohio SSBN I got on eBay yesterday. In this thread http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?p=885414 Dyna-Soar was asking about the Ohio and I found the Modelik on eBay. I PM'd him to ask if he was interested in bidding on it and he wasn't, so I did. I hope I didn't outbid any of my friends here on Zealot! Not sure when I will build it, but eventually I would like to display the Los Angeles and Ohio together.
 
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Tirt

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
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Hi BARX2,

thanks for clearing that out.
I am looking forward to your Ohio build. :D :D
 
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mitchell300

New Member
Apr 1, 2009
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Hey guys, i got this 1 to.
But i wanna downscale to 1/700 if possible.
Otherwise to 1.540.
Anybody know how to?
I got i quess an idea.
Scale to like 20% on PDF.
Then print screen.
But the amount of % i needa know for the size.
How much % =1/700 ore 1/540?

Mitch ;)
 
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BARX2

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Nov 29, 2006
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I come up with about 20.6%. You may be able to do that using your printer's settings, like I did printing it at about 72%. BUT I can assure you that some parts will become invisible at that scale. Well, I guess you could just leave off the smallest parts, because they'd be impossible to create. Just go with the hull, sail and fins. Good luck! ;-)
 
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mitchell300

New Member
Apr 1, 2009
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BARX2 said:
I come up with about 20.6%. You may be able to do that using your printer's settings, like I did printing it at about 72%. BUT I can assure you that some parts will become invisible at that scale. Well, I guess you could just leave off the smallest parts, because they'd be impossible to create. Just go with the hull, sail and fins. Good luck! ;-)
Click to expand...

Hmm , im making it an waterline model to.
So i can get enough time to fix the parts ;)

Mitch!
 
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