My Miami Layout
- Thread starter cnw1961
- Start date
Josh, it is quite simple. The metal plates are all 2 mm (.080") thick. The metal plate that is screwed to the extension (that’s the part on the left in the pics in the previous post) is one foot long. It fits exactly between the plates that are screwed to the layout. To make it easier to plug the extension in, I put strips of .013" styrene between the plywood and the metal plates that are mounted to the layout. The other end of the extension is supported by a hinged leg. Here are some more pics. I hope they will answer your questions.
Sure...piece of cake right? sign1
Seriously though. What LokSound decoder did you purchase for the geeps Kurt? It'll save me the hassle of looking them up myself.
ops:edit...actually was it this one?
72428 - EMD 567 16cylinder without turbo Charger, 1chime air horn, dynamic brakes GP7, GP9, F2, F3, F7, F9
Tetters, the prototype of my GP38-2 has a 645-16 engine and your GP9s have 567-16 engines (not turbo charged), so that you’ll need a different decoder. Have a look at the ESU page to find the item-# for the right LokSound 3.5 decoder ( http://www.esu.eu/index.php?id=339 ).
edit..... #72428 is not the one I use, but it might be the right decoder for your geep. Are you sure about the air horn?
BTW, no one offers the right decoder for a GP38-2. The 645-16 engine of the GP38 is not turbo charged and all the decoders on offer have the turbo sound. I listened to a lot of videos on Youtube and decided to go for the normally aspirated 645-12 engine, because the sound of the 12 cylinder comes much closer than the sound of a 16 cylinder turbo charged engine.
edit..... #72428 is not the one I use, but it might be the right decoder for your geep. Are you sure about the air horn?
BTW, no one offers the right decoder for a GP38-2. The 645-16 engine of the GP38 is not turbo charged and all the decoders on offer have the turbo sound. I listened to a lot of videos on Youtube and decided to go for the normally aspirated 645-12 engine, because the sound of the 12 cylinder comes much closer than the sound of a 16 cylinder turbo charged engine.
Great looking structure models!!! And great looking model RR overall, too. Nice to see it progressing well.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my post Kurt. I really appreciate it. I do not know about the air horn. There are horns on my locos though...does that count? :mrgreen:
ops: Honestly, I'm not too sure and wouldn't even know where to find out that information. ops:Kurt...Those are really gorgeous buildings...!!! I too thought how they look much more like concrete than styrene...!! :thumb:
Looking forward to see what other "wonders" you manage to incorporate into that layout..:mrgreen:
Looking forward to see what other "wonders" you manage to incorporate into that layout..:mrgreen:
Tetters, I don’t know what type of air horn CP really used on their GP9s but the horn on your model looks like a Leslie 3 chime air horn. Here is a site with information and pictures on diesel air horns: http://atsf.railfan.net/airhorns/ . Unfortunately LokSound does not offer a 567 with a Leslie air horn. You could do a Google search for locomotive air horns to find some sound samples to compare and find the closest match, but I think I’d simply go for the Nathan 3 chime ( #72432).
Colton modeler, thanks for your kind words. I hope I can come close with my modeling to what you find down there in Florida.
Gus, I appreciate your confidence in me, but I am still wondering myself what wonders we will see....:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:
Gus, I appreciate your confidence in me, but I am still wondering myself what wonders we will see....:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:
Did not get much done on the layout the last few days, but I weathered my CSX Geep and played around with the LokProgrammer to get the best sound possible. Though the sound file is from the 645 12 cylinder engine, the decoder now sounds very much like the GP38-2s I heard on Youtube (as close as you can get with such a tiny speaker).
Great job on the weathering! It looks like it has lived a fairly long hard life. Most importantly, your weathering looks real. I always love to see your work.
I like it. Not too overboard...just right. If you don't mind Kurt, would you mind sharing how you did it?
Josh, Packers, Scott, Tetters, and Deano, thanks! Glad you like it, shows that I did not ruin it ops:.
. To save it, I coated the black with medium grey. Not in the mood to make a second attempt with black paint, I decided to finish the roof with white and black chalks. After spraying two coats of paint, the surface of the roof was rather coarse and the chalks stick very well especially if the paint is still a bit sticky. I like using weathering powders anyway on parts you usually don’t touch (like the walkways). The rusty patches on the shell I made with clear matt paint and rust colored chalk. First I apply the clear paint with a thin paintbrush and then use another paintbrush to put a fair amount of chalk on it. After the paint has dried, I brush off the exceeding chalk.
For the trucks I mixed light tan with medium gray. After airbrushing the trucks, I put the shell back on the chassis and thinly sprayed some of the tan/gray to the lower parts of the engine to simulate dust from the ballast (they have light gray ballast in Miami). Next I mixed rust colored powder and clear matt paint and painted the trucks using a small paintbrush, making sure not to cover them completely. Somehow this mixture of powder and clear paint looks more like real rust then most ready made paints. Maybe it’s the size of the color pigments.
ops:.
Sure thing, Tetters. After I removed the shell from the chassis and masked off the windows, I carefully airbrushed a VERY thin coat of heavily diluted light gray (almost white) to remove the shine and to fade the colors a little. Next step was to mess up the roof wall1. I intended to spray a little grimy black to the top and the upper sides of the hood. It went alright on the sides, but I applied too much paint to the top so that it got way too dark
For the trucks I mixed light tan with medium gray. After airbrushing the trucks, I put the shell back on the chassis and thinly sprayed some of the tan/gray to the lower parts of the engine to simulate dust from the ballast (they have light gray ballast in Miami). Next I mixed rust colored powder and clear matt paint and painted the trucks using a small paintbrush, making sure not to cover them completely. Somehow this mixture of powder and clear paint looks more like real rust then most ready made paints. Maybe it’s the size of the color pigments.