Finally got DCC now i need a lil help...

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RonP

Member of the WMRC
ok it works now kinda.


  • The enigne is run backwards so i guess i got the motor connections backwards. I will fix the wires when i get that athearn i have my eye on
  • You were absolutley right about it not running smoothly either it is very choppy i think this is weird as i made the feeders 18g so i am thinking there is no shortage of juice, i will check wattage around the layout when the kids go down for a nap today.
For Canadians out there my LHS reduced their prices to compete with the USA now an athearn at Windsor hobby is $89 thats pretty good if you ask me.
 

baldwinjl

Member
Yep, if it runs backwards you just switch the orange and grey.

How did it run on DC? IF it is running worse now, I'd try running without the shell, and see if you can see any mechanical binding. Sometimes in taking apart and putting together something can get out of alignment. Also check the pickups. Make sure that if there were contact strips they are in their proper homes. You could also try running it on its back off of the track, just jump power to it. See how it works like that.

Jeff
 

MasonJar

It's not rocket surgery
Yep, if it runs backwards you just switch the orange and grey.

You can also program the decoder, telling it which way is "forward" and which is "backwards". This is especially useful for some road units that were initially set up to run long hood forward.

Andrew
 

RonP

Member of the WMRC
You can also program the decoder, telling it which way is "forward" and which is "backwards". This is especially useful for some road units that were initially set up to run long hood forward.
Andrew

Ok i have a digitrax zephyr DCC system and a T1 decoder from TCS

I see in the instructions for coding this thing says that direction control is part of the default values. CV29 is this one command or many as it looks like there is standard a thru e commands.

im gonna look for the manuals i have kicking around here and ill try the rnning the train upside down too
 

baldwinjl

Member
You can also program the decoder, telling it which way is "forward" and which is "backwards". This is especially useful for some road units that were initially set up to run long hood forward.

Andrew

That works, as well. But every time I've done it I've ended up getting all twisted around with the directional lighting, and ended up just fixing the motor wires! :mrgreen:
 

MasonJar

It's not rocket surgery
CV29 is a "Super" CV. it controls many things, all based on the "total" you enter. There should be a table telling you what the values are for the various things it controls. You simply add them up (to get a value like "39") and enter that. If your decoder information doesn't have it, I am pretty sure that the Zephyr documentation covers it.

Andrew
 

RonP

Member of the WMRC
so i have to read cv to find the value in it already

then to reverse direction it say 1 so if it was "39" then i would put "40" cv write ?
 

MasonJar

It's not rocket surgery
You should look up that table. Changing what is normally the "front" of the loco will involve either adding or subtracting some value - but I don't know if it is 1 or something else.

Andrew
 

RonP

Member of the WMRC
128 speed steps, Dither and other step up speed CV's what is best to use for tight mechinism's

i think this train is toayt like a tiger. maybe i tightenned the frame too much

If anyone is following my progress i have explained the future of my layout in my layout thread. I will add pics in the next week or two i promise.

http://forum.zealot.com/t114294/
 

RonP

Member of the WMRC
Yup exactly i got it this morning. Now im looking at speed control and test trackwork power levels ?

how do i make sure track is alright power wise is it just voltage i should be looking at cause it looks to be a strong 14 all around the layout.

Some sections of track dont work so i am going to try and clean it with steel wool and clean the loco wheels with alcohol is that a good way to do things ?
 

steamhead

Active Member
NEVER take steel wool to your track...Not only will it scratch it, the wool breaks up into thousands of tiny splinters that will find their way into you motors, axles...EVERYWHERE..!! You think you got problems now...wait 'till that steel wool gets into your motors...
 

baldwinjl

Member
Yup exactly i got it this morning. Now im looking at speed control and test trackwork power levels ?

how do i make sure track is alright power wise is it just voltage i should be looking at cause it looks to be a strong 14 all around the layout.

Some sections of track dont work so i am going to try and clean it with steel wool and clean the loco wheels with alcohol is that a good way to do things ?

In some ways, you know that power to the track is good based on how you did the job of hooking it up, rather than by trying to measure it. I say that because with no current being drawn (no trains running) the voltage is going to look fine. As soon as you pu a load on it, high resistance elements (a bad solder joint, dirty track, etc.) get to come into play, and the voltage will drop, but even then, you can only measure that drop between the drop and the load. So, the best test is really running trains, though I guess one could make a load and move it around the layout and measure the voltage across it.

As has been said, steel wool would be a bad idea, a paper towel or rag with a bit of alcohol would be better. You don't want to leave steel wool bits, and you don't want to scratch the rails, and give dirt a place to build up.
 
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