Digital Navy - USS Arizona - 1/100
- Thread starter eibwarrior
- Start date
Yet more color
Thanks Barry.
I had to borrow another camera for the lastest shots. The pictures don't look as good. Looks "washed out" to me. The hull red isn't as brilliant.
I've started with the torpedo bulges on the port side. Started in the middle and I'm working my way out in both directions. I'm further along than these shots and will have the port side finished in the next day or two.
Then I'll repeat the process on the starboard side.
Thanks Barry.
I had to borrow another camera for the lastest shots. The pictures don't look as good. Looks "washed out" to me. The hull red isn't as brilliant.
I've started with the torpedo bulges on the port side. Started in the middle and I'm working my way out in both directions. I'm further along than these shots and will have the port side finished in the next day or two.
Then I'll repeat the process on the starboard side.
C
cgutzmer
It looks fantastic, but let me warn you: All of the directions say to start the hull plating in the middle and work out to the ends. I found that to be exactly the wrong thing to do. hamr Start at both ends and work towards the middle. That way if there is any discrepancy it can be made up in a big, flat piece of plating instead of the complex shapes of the bow and stern. Listen to me give advice as if I knew what I was talking about. Whoo boy!:cry:
Thanks Chris and Jasco. The complements are very appreciated.
@Jasco - Thanks for the tip. I already have one side of the bulge plating finished. I'm going to stop short on the other side and allow room to do just what you've suggested. It makes a lot of sense when I think about it. I'm going to put the bow and stern plates on next and work my way back into the middle, although on one side it won't quite be the "middle".
@Jasco - Thanks for the tip. I already have one side of the bulge plating finished. I'm going to stop short on the other side and allow room to do just what you've suggested. It makes a lot of sense when I think about it. I'm going to put the bow and stern plates on next and work my way back into the middle, although on one side it won't quite be the "middle".
Hull closing up
I took Jasco's advice and jumped to the bow once I had the port side finished. Now I'm going to head to the stern and plate it next. I will close some where close to the middle on the starboard side.
Fit up on the port side was pretty good. Only a couple of touchup spots. I'm very pleased to this point.
I took Jasco's advice and jumped to the bow once I had the port side finished. Now I'm going to head to the stern and plate it next. I will close some where close to the middle on the starboard side.
Fit up on the port side was pretty good. Only a couple of touchup spots. I'm very pleased to this point.
is that a PLASTIC model i see in the background..
:cry:
lol
i sure am getting alot of white edges on my model
are you coloring the edges in black?
yours is coming along much better than mine...
i see no white join edges
kudos to you
i want to start over and use thin balsa for the frame work
but i have put so much time into it
that i cannot bare to do that
i will just have to consider this a learning experience since it is my first ship model
btw any one know what the best former paper is to use?
i was using thick card stock from walmart
and it just doesnt seem to cut it in this project
i get alot of misaglined edges because the paper is not stiff enough
maybe i will try and order some of that 1mm from paper model world . com
any suggestions for really really stiff former paper?
you really are doing good!!!:thumb:
:cry:
lol
i sure am getting alot of white edges on my model
are you coloring the edges in black?
yours is coming along much better than mine...
i see no white join edges
kudos to you
i want to start over and use thin balsa for the frame work
but i have put so much time into it
that i cannot bare to do that
i will just have to consider this a learning experience since it is my first ship model
btw any one know what the best former paper is to use?
i was using thick card stock from walmart
and it just doesnt seem to cut it in this project
i get alot of misaglined edges because the paper is not stiff enough
maybe i will try and order some of that 1mm from paper model world . com
any suggestions for really really stiff former paper?
you really are doing good!!!:thumb:
Thanks Hermit.
I'm coloring my edges with acrylic paints. I'm mixing my own hull red from light brown and dark red mixed about 50/50. It's a close match for the shade of red on the printing. It makes the laps look like hull plate joints :thumb:
It's also part of the reason for my slow progress. Painting the edges is laborious. I have to wait for the pieces to dry as well before I can attach them. It's a big part of the reason for my slow progress. Things should speed up once I get off the bottom. I have grey pens for my superstructure which will speed that process up considerably.
For mine, a much larger scale, I'm using 2 mm frame matting for formers and 1 mm frame matting for decks and bulkheads. Frame matting can be a bit expensive and hard to cut, but it works well. I get my frame matting at Hobby Lobby when it goes on 50% off occassionaly. I use very sharp utility scissors (vinyl flooring scissors) to make nice, clean cuts of that thick stuff. I prefer this to laminating multiple layers. I'm using 100 pound card for my hull plating and other lighter items.
I should have a picture update for tomorrow night. I've got the hull fully enclosed now and I'll putting the bilge keels on shortly.
I'm coloring my edges with acrylic paints. I'm mixing my own hull red from light brown and dark red mixed about 50/50. It's a close match for the shade of red on the printing. It makes the laps look like hull plate joints :thumb:
It's also part of the reason for my slow progress. Painting the edges is laborious. I have to wait for the pieces to dry as well before I can attach them. It's a big part of the reason for my slow progress. Things should speed up once I get off the bottom. I have grey pens for my superstructure which will speed that process up considerably.
For mine, a much larger scale, I'm using 2 mm frame matting for formers and 1 mm frame matting for decks and bulkheads. Frame matting can be a bit expensive and hard to cut, but it works well. I get my frame matting at Hobby Lobby when it goes on 50% off occassionaly. I use very sharp utility scissors (vinyl flooring scissors) to make nice, clean cuts of that thick stuff. I prefer this to laminating multiple layers. I'm using 100 pound card for my hull plating and other lighter items.
I should have a picture update for tomorrow night. I've got the hull fully enclosed now and I'll putting the bilge keels on shortly.
Full pretty close to finished
Thanks Ski!
Well, I've closed off the hull with the exception of four exterior bulge pieces (small) that go over the outside of the hull plating, and then it's on to the bilge keels, and then the props and rudder.
I'm getting color blind looking at all this red. I'm ready to get up on the deck soon. :mrgreen:
Thanks Ski!
Well, I've closed off the hull with the exception of four exterior bulge pieces (small) that go over the outside of the hull plating, and then it's on to the bilge keels, and then the props and rudder.
I'm getting color blind looking at all this red. I'm ready to get up on the deck soon. :mrgreen:
C
cgutzmer
Holeeeee coooooow! Thats huge - I might have said that before You are doing a great job - I like how its coming together so far
Chris
You are doing a great job - I like how its coming together so far Chris
Holeeeee coooooow! Thats huge - I might have said that before
Chris
It just numbs the brain, don't it?
-Ski
Thanks guys. yeah, it can be a bit overwhelming at times. I have to watch closely when I pick it up to reposition it in the floor. If I'm not careful, I'll clear a shelf or wipe out another model.
dansls1... Yeah, I've thought about that. I'm about to install a permanent shelf for it on the wall. Once I start some of the more fragile details, I want to stop moving it and get it up out of the floor.
dansls1... Yeah, I've thought about that. I'm about to install a permanent shelf for it on the wall. Once I start some of the more fragile details, I want to stop moving it and get it up out of the floor.
Are you adding anything to preserve the ink colours for the long run? It would really be a shame if that faded....
John John
John John
John,
That's a good point. One that I have thought about. This is a model that I plan on having around for quite some time. I've been a bit concerned about fading of the colors.
Can anyone enlighten me on steps that I could take to preserve my printing? Any ideas would be most welcome.
Thanks!
That's a good point. One that I have thought about. This is a model that I plan on having around for quite some time. I've been a bit concerned about fading of the colors.
Can anyone enlighten me on steps that I could take to preserve my printing? Any ideas would be most welcome.
Thanks!
:mrgreen:i spray all my sheets BEFORE i cut them out with a print sealer from the walmart arts and craft section it seals the sheel (laser or inkjet) and is supposed to protect it from uv fading
it seals so well that i can use a wet tissue to clean up all of the glue streaks when i am building
i do not build models with out it
i find it amazing how well it works and that i can spray 3-4 models of the size of the arizona for a 4.50$ can
its called
patricia nimocks decorative crafts clear acrylic sealer
and it comes in a blue and black spray can
in the arts and crafts section of walmart
it comes in gloss and matte
i hate the gloss because it makes random fibers in the paper shiny through the ink
but the matte is awesome and i use it on laser printed paper
it really glues the toner on the paper somehow and makes it much more durable when i score the paper
hope this helps you out!!!
ps: my hull is now done and in started on the decking now
:mrgreen:
but the 2 mm card is a booger to cut
maybe you can buy me a craft robo for christmas!!
:twisted:
lol
it seals so well that i can use a wet tissue to clean up all of the glue streaks when i am building
i do not build models with out it
i find it amazing how well it works and that i can spray 3-4 models of the size of the arizona for a 4.50$ can
its called
patricia nimocks decorative crafts clear acrylic sealer
and it comes in a blue and black spray can
in the arts and crafts section of walmart
it comes in gloss and matte
i hate the gloss because it makes random fibers in the paper shiny through the ink
but the matte is awesome and i use it on laser printed paper
it really glues the toner on the paper somehow and makes it much more durable when i score the paper
hope this helps you out!!!
ps: my hull is now done and in started on the decking now
:mrgreen:
but the 2 mm card is a booger to cut
maybe you can buy me a craft robo for christmas!!
:twisted:
lol
just the same as none applied
i notice no difference
but i only spray the inked side
again having said that i notice no issues at all
i notice no difference
but i only spray the inked side
again having said that i notice no issues at all
Thanks for the tip Hermit. I'm going to pick up a can and spray the hull when I'm finished with it. Since I haven't done anything else, it shouldn't be too bad to spray it attached.
Now that I've got the hull on, I'm just putting bilge keels on right now. More tedious work than I first thought. At this scale, you have to glue them on inch-by-inch and not all at once. They're way too long to do that.
I'll have some update pictures up soon.
Now that I've got the hull on, I'm just putting bilge keels on right now. More tedious work than I first thought. At this scale, you have to glue them on inch-by-inch and not all at once. They're way too long to do that.
I'll have some update pictures up soon.