The model itself was fine. It was the PDF that was messed up. And there are links inside the PDF to a collection of photos for the artist's build. He hasn't put out a corrected PDF yet though.That's significant. I saw this model posted, and it is quite stunning. You must be the first person building it, as I have seen no pictures anywhere of anyone building it. I would love to see a build thread of this awesome model. Thanks for the info. Please post when the errors have been fixed and the link to corrected model? This will help people who may be interested this ambitious model. Thanks!
There was a bit of ghosting on two pages. One page had the parts listed as "R6" and the other was "R10". Also, the lines for the page listed as "Struts" printed out way way too faint on some of the lines. Faint lines are all through the PDF actually, but they're usable. On another note, for some reason it's really hard to get chipboard in this area!! I had to order some more after I messed up the main torus rings. So yeah, no pictures of anything finished at all at this point. I'm just building the other parts for now.What was messed up with the .pdf, so that others may know, and work with what they have, if you don't mind.
Chipboard is just un-corrugated cardboard sheets. Like the stuff you find in hardbound books or the back of a mounted photo.I don't know what "Chipboad" is, I probably call it something else. Extracting the pages from the .pdf and then darkening with the appropriate program would be the best way. Personally, I think having the faintest lines you can work with gives you a better looking mode. I believe that may have been what David Lukens had in mind, looking at the care and effort put into this model. It's quite astonishing actually. I was able to extract the pages, but since it is locked in the .pdf, I will not share these .jpegs, nor tell anyone how to do it, anyone good with software can crack Adobe security. I would sincerely advise doing this only for your own purposes. I could import this into Rhino and create darker lines, if I had time to do anything but fix my house.
Maybe he will offer two versions, one with darker lines, and one with softer. I don't know what program he used to make this model, in some programs that is just a matter of changing the properties of all the lines, and "woomp", there it is. With other programs, not so easy.
I understand about the faint lines. Yes it would make a better looking model. But I can't even get them to show up at all on my printer. *whine whine*
). Going full black is not an option. Something between 50 and 70 % black (= light grey) works best.
Thanks! I'll give it a try.I can get you started with Rhino. If you do this thread, forget about it being a boat, think of it as a part, you will learn so many commands. get through this tutorial, and I will help you further.
http://www.zealot.com/threads/quest...-lofting-of-a-simple-hull.177940/#post-991725
I messed with my printer for ages. Tried all kinds of settings. Nothing helped me. It's even got a new print head. Then again, the printer itself is maybe 6 years old....it's a Kodak ESP 3.2!
Version 1.2 is definitely available on the Paper Modelers download section. However there are still some problems with it. I have emailed Thanos and he said he will look into it soon. I'm being a pest with him, but I so want to build that model!
Great! Now I have to download another one!
