No, not my mind but my builds. I like to think my cuts are crisp and my folds are good but inevitably my parts are not straight. Is there something I'm missing and need to keep an eye out for? Its very frustrating.
Warped and Twisted
- Thread starter dirkpitt289
- Start date
That depends on several factors. I'd like to know:
What kind of paper do you use?
What kind of glue do you use?
Do you score the parts before folding?
What kind of paper do you use?
What kind of glue do you use?
Do you score the parts before folding?
First off make sure you have good lighting to cut down on any shadows that might throw things off.
Use a metal straight edge to make straight cuts. One method is to place the blade of the knife on the cut line then move the straight edge up to the blade. Note the relationship between the straight edge and the cutting line at the blade then move the rest of the straight edge until that space is acheived all along the straight edge. Hold the straight edge down firmly and make your cut along the cut line. It is like when you use a try square and a marking knife when laying out joinery in wood working. Practice practice practice.
For curved cuts just take your time. Leave the point of the blade in the stock then rotate the piece as you make the cut. Practice practice practice.
For folds use a flat ruler like a bending brake along the fold line to make the initial fold then use something like a bone folder to go over the fold to make it morer crisperer. If you do not have a bone folder use the back of a spoon or a dowel of some sort.
Use a metal straight edge to make straight cuts. One method is to place the blade of the knife on the cut line then move the straight edge up to the blade. Note the relationship between the straight edge and the cutting line at the blade then move the rest of the straight edge until that space is acheived all along the straight edge. Hold the straight edge down firmly and make your cut along the cut line. It is like when you use a try square and a marking knife when laying out joinery in wood working. Practice practice practice.
For curved cuts just take your time. Leave the point of the blade in the stock then rotate the piece as you make the cut. Practice practice practice.
For folds use a flat ruler like a bending brake along the fold line to make the initial fold then use something like a bone folder to go over the fold to make it morer crisperer. If you do not have a bone folder use the back of a spoon or a dowel of some sort.
The one I'm currently building doesn't have room for supports. The body is very thinIn addition to what Revell-Fan asked, are you using support structures? My Ent-A currently under construction is the first TOS/TNG Federation ship I've got the saucer right (And I've built a few ...), and credit goes to the supports.
Thanks for that information, Doug. Its good to know that i'm already doing most of what you said,First off make sure you have good lighting to cut down on any shadows that might throw things off.
Use a metal straight edge to make straight cuts. One method is to place the blade of the knife on the cut line then move the straight edge up to the blade. Note the relationship between the straight edge and the cutting line at the blade then move the rest of the straight edge until that space is acheived all along the straight edge. Hold the straight edge down firmly and make your cut along the cut line. It is like when you use a try square and a marking knife when laying out joinery in wood working. Practice practice practice.
For curved cuts just take your time. Leave the point of the blade in the stock then rotate the piece as you make the cut. Practice practice practice.
For folds use a flat ruler like a bending brake along the fold line to make the initial fold then use something like a bone folder to go over the fold to make it morer crisperer. If you do not have a bone folder use the back of a spoon or a dowel of some sort.
Yes, I think the two factors that can most cause this are the thickness (or thinness) of the paper and the amount of water in the glue. You don't want to build card models with regular PVA (like Elmer's) because of the water content. Try different Aleene's bottles (I like their clear glue a lot). Test different glues. Dryer ones are probably best. For larger panels and expanses, you need to print on pretty thick cardstock. Different brands of paper can absorb water and warp more than others, too.
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,499
- 9,551
- 228
...or 5.5” wooden coffee stirrers!
http://www.zealot.com/threads/this-is-a-stick-up.177056/
http://www.zealot.com/threads/this-is-a-stick-up.177056/
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,499
- 9,551
- 228
Use a steel rule for your cuts... ( which I am sure you do ) but also secure either masking or painters tape to the bottom of the rule/straight edge, it will give it some "grip" and stop it from sliding. I never cut straight down, but at a slight angle to the rule so that my cuts are beveled just slightly, then the edges will meet together better. if the part is to small for supports.. double the thickness of the stock.. glue up 2/3/4 layers or more or even enough that the piece becomes a solid chunk of card stock, laminated together with Aleene's Tacky glue or even CV glue ie super glue.. and turn it into plastic! Wax paper, flat surface and a heavy weight and compress enough to get things straight--- till its dry!
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,499
- 9,551
- 228
Beveled edges met up so much better, it allows the ends of the paper to really connect through the glue medium. Great tip!!