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Old 03-01-2012, 12:42 PM   #16
Psyscape
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Yes, the Cameo is very similar to the Cricut, without comparing the two I couldn't really say what the differences are except price.

Advantages of tempering a blade is that the edge lasts longer, however, inexperienced people will likely make the metal more brittle as a result, rather than stronger, so it is not something to be approached casually.

In my opinion generic blades are just fine. I use both and there is little difference except perhaps the xacto holds an edge for a little longer. The difference in price does not equate to lifespan though so overall a saving can be made using generic blades.
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lehcyfer View Post
I understand that the second reheat is not to red...
The second reheat is to relax the metal. Heating then instantly cooling the metal fatigues it making it brittle. and yes, I reheat the second time to red

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Originally Posted by Szdfan View Post
What's the advantage of tempering a blade? What kind of heat source do you use?
Tempering the blades makes them stronger, and able to hold the sharp edge longer. I use a Bunsen burner similar to the type used in labs on tv. corny but effective, plus I can temper 10 blades at a time

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Originally Posted by Zathros View Post
You will get much better results with 30 weight oil. The viscosity of water is too thin and the heat boils the water away too easily. The causes uneven tempering of the steel. You may not even need a second dip. This was something I learned about 25 years ago when I was working in a aircraft instrument company. We had to harden small parts. Oil was the rule.
I'll definitely try the oil, although I don't dip twice, the second cooling takes about 4 hours in room temp air on a rack.
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:55 PM   #18
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Air Hardening, definitely a proven method! Quenching first in oil, and letting it cool at a not too fast rate the second time makes for a good edge. Works for drill bits too!
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zathros View Post
You will get much better results with 30 weight oil. The viscosity of water is too thin and the heat boils the water away too easily. The causes uneven tempering of the steel. You may not even need a second dip. This was something I learned about 25 years ago when I was working in a aircraft instrument company. We had to harden small parts. Oil was the rule.

From what I understand the second reheat is to relax the metal from the shock of the initial tempering. You could try putting clay on the back side and make miniature Katana exacto blades.
What kind of oil would you use for this?
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:43 PM   #20
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Great thread, guys. I'm going to have to experiment with resharpening or hardening X-acto blades. The thought never occurred to me.

I always knock out my long, straight cuts first with a plain old single-edge razor blade in a box cutter. I've got a huge pack of blades I bought cheap and just change blades/blade ends when needed.

Wade
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:39 AM   #21
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Armorman posted this in another part of the forum, but as it adheres to this thread I quote it here:
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Originally Posted by ARMORMAN View Post
I was meeting with a fellow modeler the other day and he had one of these cool little tools for sharpening x-acto blades. It did a great job on a bunch of blades I was going to pitch. I just ordered a set for myself.



It's called the Edjer and can be found at the following web address:

http://edjer.com/
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:12 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Szdfan View Post
What kind of oil would you use for this?
Just regular 30 Weight motor oil.

Leather mounted on a arbor, or a pulley set up, can sharpen blades like the edges that a Barbers gets, The more the leather is used, the better it comes as it picks up some of the metal and basically buffs the edge on. I think this is much to do for a tiny blade and to me, personally, the time is worth more than just tossing the blade for a new one. Then again, that is also part of the hobby, so what ever floats your boat!
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